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R0B

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R0B last won the day on August 26 2020

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  1. FOWLR tanks may not need as much lighting horsepower as that of a full blown reef tank. However, you still want enough to grow macroalgae in the form of coralline algae, whose growth will be very dependent on the light sources used. You won't need much power, 75 PAR should suffice. As such some T5 lights would suffice. Depending on depth of rockscape I would recommend a four tube set up well spaced (2x2) mounted at 10 to 12 inches off the water. A mix of ATI blue plus and Coral Plus bulbs should give a good spectrum and aesthetic, as well as bringing out the colours of the fish. Equivalent
  2. Both RODI and distilled water are fine. Most long term reefers go with RODI as it removes all the impurities in the water from chemicals, to the heavy metals (even the odd radioactive isotope). The reason RODI is preferred is due to long term cost associated with other clean water sources. (If your tank is small then it may be ok to just get distilled). I would NOT go with tap water in a reef tank, even with the chemical agents used to treat the water it holds on to too many impurities which will build up in your system. Hope that helps. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  3. If you don't have any live stock in the tank then you can lower the salinity to around 1.15 - 1.18 and increase the temperature slightly to 28. Adding an air stone may also help (assuming you are not running your skimmer or wavemakers) as bacteria consume oxygen. These things will aid bacterial growth. Fyi, 4 is absolutely a good number at this stage. You don't want to go down to zero for neither Nitrate nor Phosphate. It's all about stability. Soon you will be ready for a starter fish. So think about your choices ahead of you. Good luck but sounds like you are in a good position. Se
  4. Love the aquascape. Haha. Minimalist is the way to go! Just a hint for cycling. Bacteria use energy creating a membrane to fight off saline water. Hence if you lower the salinity to say 1.15 or 1.18 then the bacteria will replicate faster as they dont need to expend energy just trying to survive. Also as they reproduce the oxygen levels in the tank will reduce, so make sure the water is moving around a little to allow for gas exchange. Looking good. Can't wait to see the tank progress. Good luck. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  5. agree with my fellow refer, what are your aims? Just to help you, here is some info on lights... The strength of light is measured in PAR, and the different colours refers to the lights 'SPECTRUM' (also look for high PUR in this regard). as such we tend to look at lights for our reef tanks in those terms, rather then just Watts. But there obviously is some correlation. A very rough rule of thumb would be to have 4 to 8 watts of light per gallon, but that is old school measure and not always representative. Here is a good resource that discussed PAR values for corals... Also this chann
  6. I have to agree with my fellow reefers. Back in the day I used exactly the same racking system as you for a 200L tank. I knew it wasn't perfect but it was all I had. How I made it work was I got some additional supports for each of the corners. This took the form of four 2x3inch lengths of wood under each corner basically taking the weight. It worked fine.. until after a year when I noticed that the structure was starting to twist and the metal frame was bent. The tank wasn't level anymore and i reckon it would have given up anytime soon. If you have more tanks I think would be worse situati
  7. What an interesting new product! That should work well given they have combined with an ATO. Looks like a great choice. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  8. Well you gotta be happy with that. Looks great! Orphek recommend a high mounting height for blanket coverage, so is looking rel good. But final height should really be set by your corals and their needs. Note 'SubzeroLT' has a PAR monitoring service so you can touch base with him once you have your aquascape all sorted. Keep up with the updates! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  9. Congrats on thinking about an AWC it would imho certainly improve the quality of your tank, however there are a few things to consider with both options You said about relying on sensors, well the Autoaqua smart AWC has an additional timer safety feature so it won't overrun hence not reliant on sensors alone. The good point about the use of float sensors as the primary control is that they allows the system to replace exactly what it pulls out irrespective of what pumps you use for either input or output, so there is no need to calibrate pumps to match volumes. (I believe autoaqua also offer
  10. There are certain strains of bacteria that don't enter our systems unless we purposefully place them there. So adding a spectrum of bacteria allows for that population to occur. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  11. I guess you have a fair few different options. So you may want to think about usage first. Is it for algea control or for disease control? If for algea, operating it as a closed loop with the main display is the best option. For disease it is better to run at slower flow rates. Regarding mounting. Firstly one option is to mount it to the roof above the sump (assuming you have adequate surface and depth of surface - dont want to drill into tank!). This keeps it out of the way! Second option is to have it mounted on a side or back wall . With both of these options make sure the way you ac
  12. As with most reef related pollutants the "solution is dilution" with a good okd fashioned water change. Dosing Citric acid will deplete alkalinity, and impact calcium so you will need to monitor and then slowly add a little extra alk in each water change (just a little!). Also you have just accidentally added a carbon source so depending on how much was added you may want to watch for bacteria blooms (which will later impact oxygen levels). But from the sounds of it, there was onoy a small amount added so most likely you will see no impact at all. Good luck. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobi
  13. There are many types of hermit crabs and most are reef safe (no guarantees). Paguritta tend to be filter feeding crabs so you should be okay. Tidal gardens did a video on Paguritta crabs... For crab info check out https://reefguide.org/index25.html#Right-Handed_Hermits to confirm the identify you new tank mate. Then use which has more info https://www.reeflex.net/kategorie/51.html#paguritta Looks like an added benefit from what I can see. Let me know if you interested in letting one go, as would be keen to increase the bio-diversty in my tank haha. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mo
  14. Brightwell neo nitro uses a mix of both potassium nitrate and sodium nitrate. You could use Laudwolf sodium nitrate 99.6% (which is food grade from nine life.sg). To be honest I don't find a real cost saving vs. commercial products for nitrate. Plus you need to be careful of the dose vs. increases in salinity. Here is a good calculator to help you. http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/calculator.htm Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  15. (assumung you were talking about fish QT). A Fishes motabolism increases with temperature so their resting heart rate will go up as water tempreture increases. Further as tempreature goes up the amount of dissolved oxygen decreases. Certain medications will further deplete the oxygen levels. If a fish has some parasite or infection of the gills it is going to struggle to breathe already, add in the increase in tempreture and well it could be all a little too much. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
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