johntanjm

I am a youth too!

some tank makers at the corner edges, they have this triangular strip of glass to give added strength to the joints. request for that.

be very cautious guys, I suggest its better to err on the low side that means, dose a bit, observe, then dose a tiny bit more, observe again. don't believe in the figures you read. every tank has its own bacteria colony and strains. anyone can just put one number X ml/Gallon on whatever. but if something happens to your tank, its ultimately you who will bear the loss. in theory, this is actually quite a good way to lower nitrates. I lost my tank once because of this experiment. the water turned into white milk. even after 100% water change, it didn't help. but then again I was very new to the hobby, anyhow whack. so yeps, be careful. I believe it works but proceed with caution.

I've been very interested in this topic lately as I'm beginning my FOWLR. The main reason why fish don't eat pellet is because they don't know its food. In the wild, there's no such thing as pellet so when they see pellet, they don't know its actually food. This is worse if your fish is already in the main tank. any uneaten pellet will sink to the bottom and be camouflaged with the sand. fish will never get a chance to learn that it is food. Realize from observation, J1R3H marine who always boast that their fish (even moorish idol) eat pellet, they seem do to their training in bare bottom tanks. even if pellet sink, they will be on open space where the fish can see. pellet also have smell so over time the fish might pick up the scent, get curious and peck on the pellet. from then on it will learn that pellet = food. Also one way to induce the curiosity of the fish is to use an attractant i.e. Kent Garlic Extreme, or Seachem Entice. soak pellets in these solution before feeding. If you fish is already taking certain food, it has less incentive to try out pellet. crush the pellet into fine powder. (easy way is to put pellet on a piece of paper, then use a small pvc pipe and roll over it) before feeding mysis, pick up the mysis with a tweezer, and roll it on the pellet powder until its coated. then feed. fish will eat because its mysis and they're used to it, at the same time, they get introduced to a new taste which is pellet. initially they might take the mysis and then spit but over time they learn. I used this technique on a moorish that eats stricly J1R3H pellet. this were the steps I took to wean it onto new life spectrum. stage 1. Soak J1R3H pellet in garlic extreme and feed. get the MI used to garlic smell stage 2. Crush new life spectrum pellet into powder, mix with J1R3H pellet and garlic juice then feed. Now MI will get used to new life spectrum stage 3. feed new life spectrum pellet with garlic stage 4. feed new life spectrum alone stage 5. feed both spectrum and J1R3H food If you don't have space for a training tank, consider using a betta box, train the new fish for a month. also gives you time to check for disease. before letting it roam in the main tank.

catch it out first. wait and see

all for $25 or 1 for $25?

second creetin. don't think black will affect growth but if its white, its more convenient to monitor i guess.

keep magnesium constantly above 1200. i find it one of the most difficult and expensive parameters to raise

no la its bigger then tennis ball, body size of ping pong ball. if its basketball size i confirm bring to sushi chef to make uni sashimi! ha didn't know can cut off the spikes. but i kena poke before. there's venom on the spikes, not enough to kill but enough to make the pain last for hours! anyway urchin's collected. thank you. thread closed.

Bought this black sea urchin but seems to be taking too much space. where the urchin go, fish cannot go and my tank is narrow. Black color, long spikes and have neon electric blue markings on its body when under light. Looks like from outer space. sorry no pics, no point take pics also. its just an urchin. Collect near west coast plaza. (the old ginza plaza) John@97813303

If no LS, do a 90% water change. let it run one day, test again, if still high, perform another 90% water change. costly in terms of salt and time, NO3 is one of the hardest parameters to manage.

JimmiPiage: I channeled the water into these thick 'bubble reducer' socks made by Dymax. Bubbles are significantly lesser than before. I'm using a MH so bubbles are obvious right under the lamp and I'm thinking of switching to FL tubes so the bubbles are visually less apparent. no need for such strong light after all i run a FOWLR Santa: actually i must say that total screen area has been reduced. I used to have 2 algae growing surfaces, now its just one. underwater: I use a piece of thin acrylic plastic for the sloping surface so its quite flexible. Under the weight of the water, it bends. There are no holes in it. I do not grow the algae on the plastic itself. I layer a piece of cloth over the plastic. the plastic gives the screen support and shape, and the cloth gives a good rough surface for algae to grow. peacemaker: in my overflow, the water hits some wool then it hits about 1.5 feet tall worth of bio media before it reaches the screen. don't think there's much to worry about in my case la. samchez: this lamp cost me $20!!!!!!! friggging expensive! its a 20W energy efficient spotlight 2700K warm day light. i bought at jalan jurong kecil. screens wise as in the plastic? $3-4 from any hardware store, can even ask them to cut to size. bras basah complex have some acrylic shops. A1 Sign, friendly, reasonable price and can custom cut for you with buffed edges. as for the cloth, I also dunno how to describe what cloth. its just cloth. haha creetin: yeah boy. I had a lil firework display once cos the splashing caused a short circuit. scary!

Alright guys, I have been missing in action for a bit and here's my update. I have changed my algae scrubber design. Reasons for doing so: (1) too much splashing inside my cabinet, (2) the way my bulbs are wired in the middle is very risky, (3) the way i hung my screens if you refer to earlier posts, i have instances where the screen slid down and jammed the slit and caused spraying, (4) maintenance wasn't that convenient. This is my new design, water is fed directly from overflow, gushes horizontally across the screens, finds its way through a 'refugium' (lots of pods in there), and then go through bubble removing socks and then hits the return pump. I cover the screens with a piece of acrylic so there's only no splash evaporation rate is pretty much negligible. Here you see the water flow, its just like the rapids, a lot of churn and turbulence and bubbles. Of course, great growth still. If you want to know the parameters, nitrates are 12.5 still. someone told me that i need to divide that number by 4.3 or something cos i'm using a Tetra test kit. I don't own a phosphate test kit unfortunately. Anyone is welcomed to drop by and test if you're really keen on the results. Tank is clear, I feed many times a day, nuisance algae is not apparent at all.

magix if the diagram depicts exactly what you're going to build, you're gonna run into big problems with microbubbles forming. Where the end of the screen hits the water surface, you're gonna get lots of bubbles and your return pump is going to suck it all up into the display tank. From my bad experience bubble issue, I realized one thing that not many other people have that problem as bad as mine and that's also because I'm plumbing the algae screen at ~5000-7000L/H. But at the same time, I also attribute the high turbulent flow on my screens as one of the factors for lush algae growth.

hey lemon, your MI from J1R3H huh? I bought my MI there, I think that shop got black magic, MI refuse to eat anything else except J1R3H Pellet. I buy spectrum with garlic, smell so nice, the fish don't even want to touch, but J1R3H pellet it eat until shiok.

try turning off your skimmer and FR. sure to boost growth on the screen

Just nice i saw this post, i also looking for acrylic sheet, 3mm and above hard to cut it yourself, found a shop also at bras basah, very reasonable price and you can ask them to custom cut to size for you. A1SIGN Bras Basah Complex #01-59A 63343343

very smart!

I just finished a major overhaul of my algae screen and have some parts to pass on to whoever's keen to DIY I run my entire 300L setup relying solely on the screen without a skimmer or FR so the parts here are for super heavy-duty algae screen builds. Please contact John@97813303, Collect at west coast, near west coast plaza Things for sale: 1. 2x Algae Screen Slit Pipe with plastic bar to hold algae screen up very high quality machine cut, smooth edges. slit length is 19.5inches, entire pipe length is 20.25inches, pipe size is 30mm I have 1 brand new algae screen cloth, first buyer of the pipe gets it FREE $10 per bar 2. 1x Algae screen, green algae has already taken root and growing well. plug and play, if you follow santa's thread, i should have 2 screens but I'm keeping one for myself screen is made of cloth, edges are rolled and sewn to prevent fraying you may cut the screen into smaller pieces to fit your needs what you see in the pictures is after cleaning. $10 3. 2x Philips light bulbs 18W energy saver 6500K cool daylight This is the spiral tube with a hard glass case outside to prevent water from splashing onto the light tube comes with box, used for < 2months no pictures I'm sorry $5 per bulb Please contact John@97813303, Collect at west coast, near west coast plaza

Just want to add, I've experienced it myself. population of pods with an algae screen is just ridiculous. they're everywhere! big ones and small ones.

I think they call that plastic canvas. good stuff. durable quality, resist wear and tear from the water

i second that. clear lacquer spray is easily available. $4 a bottle. I sprayed multiple layers. spray one thin layer, dry already, spray another. kiasu abit. till now its holiding up very well.

I suggest a 2228 which is the largest in the professional series. Don't bother paying more for the professional II series. just an additional priming and flow monitoring feature which i don't think it quite necessary. others might have other opinion tho' Bro. Jyoon's 2227 is a wet/dry filter. very interesting cos it has a pulsing effect, double up as a 'wave maker' cos it adds a little randomness in the water circulation. I used this before. It is an excellent bio filter. maybe u convince him to sell it to you together with all the media inside.

get a canister, as big as your budget allows. fill it with good quality bio media. It will serve you well. If you buy good brands like eheim, it will have resale value as well

Interested in the canister but would like to know the model number.