mansiz

Yes bro hammy, that is what I'm trying to say. Thanks.

But if we apply some physics on this stand, I think the centre weight of the tank would not be on the centre bar, rather it will be on the 4 side bars towards the 4 legs since all the 5 bars are on the same level. But my physics is poor, it's just guessing. Maybe you could get a ply wood like what bro Nitro suggest (if you can get one) to place it at the bottom, then styrofoam, then lastly your tank on top. But make sure the ply wood is straight with no arc, and make sure the whole piece of plywood is of same thicknes.

You can get it from Jireh, you will have to purchase a jerry can during your 1st purchase and you can refill from your 2nd visit onwards. But I think if you bring your own can, you don't have to purchase new one.

It's not complete closing as I have mentioned earlier. You basically just have to turn the inlet holes clockwise, and you will see clearly that the inlet is actually closing up. If you have algaes on your powerhead, you may need to try harder to turn it.

You don't have to put a ply wood. A styrofoam is the best to place under the tank. Not to worry about the weight, if the styrofoam is placed in between the stand and the tank, the weight will be supported by the stand evenly.

I doubt it's mosquito too. For a 3 months tank, it is possible to have pods. As they could be from sand or liverocks. The reason why your main tank doesn't have it could be because fishes prey on it or they are hiding in sand/LRs. I can't think of anything else, maybe other bros can help u on this.

You don't have to do that, do you know that this pump is invented such that there is a minimum risk of your livestocks being suck in. Did you transform it to the circle form or u still using the original form ( which is somehow like a rectangle shape with outlet at the bottom)? If it's at the circle shape, do you know that you can actually close up the inlet? Meaning that in between holes, another plastic will actually cover the holes (but not complete cover).

Wow so heng. I think it should be poisonous from the colour you mentioned. Btw if you intend to keep one, be sure to provide them with amper hair algaes.

But since LFS always expose them to air, is there anyway to remove trapped air? Btw if they are exposed to air, the harm is that the air will be trapped inside right? Is it a must to remove detritus on them?

Depends on what LS you keeping. SPS/clams could required 250 watt MH, if LPS and soft corals, then 150 MH will be enough. If whole tank are soft corals, 4 x T5 HO could do well too.

Hardly seen liao leh. U try clementi 328 ba, see whether any LFS there selling. Higher chance.

Yes agree, the return pipe should be flowing into the main tank and not into the overflow box. If you flow it into the overflow box, then water will go down to the sump again. You should flow it to the main tank, then let water flows down from the overflow box automatically.

Bro, yours is crocea. What other colours they have? Either maxima or crocea.

Hi Marine12, can you elaborate more on what had happen? The pump you mean the sump tank or the main tank pump? The water flow from the main tank to the sump tank is via a pump or through over flow system? If you are using an overflow system, once you on the pump in the sump tank, it is not possible for the sump tank to be flooded. I don't quite get it from your post is that how come your water is flowing down to the sump before the pump in the sump tank is switched on? For a basic setup, you filled your main tank to be just enough amount (same level as the oevrflow), then you filled your sump tank to 1/4 or 1/2 full of water, then you turn on your pump in the sump tank, and water will automatically flow up through the pump and down via the overflow.

Wow I want also. Still got any more tub?

Some LFS selling liquid plankton, which is known to be alive (must be refrigetrate), but not sure whether true or not. Some selling powdered form, mix with water and pour into tank as feeding. Make sure to check your tank requirement, whether you need phyto or zoo plankton, or both.

Are you feeding him with pellets? You have to try all kinds of food to see which he is willing to accept. The best starter food I would recommend would be live brine shrimps. But soak the live brine in fresh water for a while before feeding to minimise any risk of disease introduction.

Ya me too...

I find out the way henry does is the best. He uses a container with a mirror in the container, it's so far one of the best trap I have seen in catching almost all fishes. Be sure to tie a string or transparent line to the container in order for you to put the container up when the fish are in.

Can try Resun CL 450.

It's recommended to place a sponge filter, not for the purpose of removing waste, but for the purpose of having BB to grow.

Yup agree too, don't get another clown. It will kill it. Even if the new addition is larger in size, there will still be a high risk that it will die. Bro piero, since you are keeping a LPS tank, I would also recommend anthias as your new addtion fishes.

I think ML only left one, have to be fast if you want one. Can try ask Jireh or sealife, a high chance they have it.

I think I should add on a bit, the cost of FR may be cheap, but the cost of the medium is quite expensive. Many bro using Rowa phos, which cost more than $80. So have to consider the medium part also. Without it, the FR cannot work.

Sticky stuff is the slime produced by soft corals. When they are being shifted or some other factors like stress, they will produce it. By the term melt meaning your coral will shrink in size and gradually melt off. If it starts to melt due to bad water quality, lighting issues, water current issues or food issues, they will resuce in size day by day, and you can actually see them not open up as it use to be. Try not to dip corals in FW, it is harmful to them.