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Energy efficient setups


ryanlio
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Will like to consolidated ideas on what reefers do towards a sustainable hobby and perhaps will be my next reef build in time to come.

What I currently did for my 3 footer.

1. Converted to led setup, running only at night, by running at night, it will reduce the chiller from kicking in the day.

2. Replaced return pump to tesino pumps which runs 25w. Used to run eheim 1260@65 w. Savings of 40w..

3. Running a shallow tank.. 16 in height. Reduces the need for lights to punch through depths of water..

4. Opted for full grown refugium to replace Skimmer.

5. More tolerant corals that looks good too. Hopefully some day I will reduce the need for chiller like jasonpoh.. hahahha

Future considerations

1. Reduced tank to sump height.. resulting in use of less powerful return pump to overcome the head loss..

2. more efficient chilling techniques.

3. Does our electricity charge differs in different time of the day?.. can align my energy usage in-line.. ie running a ups over more expensive tariffs of the day..

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I think for household is flat rate throughout the day.

For industrial there are many ratings

6.5 * 2 * 2 + 3.75 * 1.5 *1.5,(Decomn on 14/9/08)
4*2*2 + 2.5*1.25*1.25 (Decomn on 1/8/09)
5*2*2 (Fully LED light system, 140 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)
2.5*2*2(Fully LED Light System,96 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)

5*2.5*2(LED only)

Eheim return 1 * pump

1 HP Daikin compressor with cooling coil
2 Jebao OW40, 1 ecotech MP40,
1X6085 Tunze wm,

1 CURVE 7 Skimmer

  1 DIY 80 led control by Bluefish mini 

1 radion XR30W G2, 2 Radion XR15G3

Sump area lite by 5 ft T5 , 6 * SSC 3 watt red LED for refugium

1 Full spectrum E27 led light

1 CR control by bubble count

Start No Water Change since 1st Dec 2016

Add new 2.5x2x 1.5 ft 

 nLekOfpYts.jpg
[/quote]


 

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Maybe if you place your tank near a window you will save electricity for the light in the day.

This is only my idea

6.5 * 2 * 2 + 3.75 * 1.5 *1.5,(Decomn on 14/9/08)
4*2*2 + 2.5*1.25*1.25 (Decomn on 1/8/09)
5*2*2 (Fully LED light system, 140 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)
2.5*2*2(Fully LED Light System,96 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)

5*2.5*2(LED only)

Eheim return 1 * pump

1 HP Daikin compressor with cooling coil
2 Jebao OW40, 1 ecotech MP40,
1X6085 Tunze wm,

1 CURVE 7 Skimmer

  1 DIY 80 led control by Bluefish mini 

1 radion XR30W G2, 2 Radion XR15G3

Sump area lite by 5 ft T5 , 6 * SSC 3 watt red LED for refugium

1 Full spectrum E27 led light

1 CR control by bubble count

Start No Water Change since 1st Dec 2016

Add new 2.5x2x 1.5 ft 

 nLekOfpYts.jpg
[/quote]


 

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I think there is a balance on energy efficient and enjoying the hobby. If one steers too much to energy efficient and setup the tank in such a way that it is not what he wanted. Then there still be some form of regrets lingering in his mind every now n then.

Also, energy efficient comes with an initial high cost. The biz pple always talks about return of "investments". In this case is how long it takes for the expensive pump to help u save on $ on elect bills as compared to cheap pump.

It is also important to future proof the setup in case things does not turn well. When u reduce the height of cabinet to save on head loss, u also reduce the choices of skimmers. As sometimes it doesn't turn out to wat u want n u need a skimmer and u can't find one tat is so short in the market. In the end u buy n external skimmer and yr wife is grumpy all the time.

For my case, I'm bypassing the return of investment rule. Not a calculative person. So I just buy those energy efficient stuffs.

Stuffs tat are on 24/7 r the first to be change. So they are the return pumps.

Wave maker is vortech. So heat transfer is reduced as pump is not in water. Also u can set it to slow speed in night mode too. I read about a thread in reef central on someone comparing tunze, koralia, vortech in terms of noise, power n heat. Need go read up which consume more.

Next is led lightings if u want to save on electricity n chiller.

I feel the main components of equipments need to be energy efficient n also powerful enough to do the job. Else if buy multiple wavemakers, more heat is introduced to water.

Tank size:36"x36"x24"

Return pump" 2x Reef Octo 5000

Skimmer:BK Double Cone 200 on Reef Octopus DC 5500s.

Wavemaker:2xVortech MP40wES

Chemical filtration:1xeducator FR(biopellets)

Chiller:1hp Daikin compressor.

Lighting:2 x Kessil A360we

Auto topup system: JBJ ATO + new jet 1200

Dosing system: Kamoer 3 channel.

Additives: ESV 2 part.

Power consumption

2XReef Octo 5000: 120watts

BK skimmer:50watts

2xVortech wavemaker:70watts

Daikin compressor:775watts

Lighting:180watts

Ato system:21watts

Exhaust fans:16watts

Refugium light:27watts

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Maybe if you place your tank near a window you will save electricity for the light in the day.

This is only my idea

Yup.. my tank is by the window now.. experiencing better growth. Hope can supplement led lighting.

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I think there is a balance on energy efficient and enjoying the hobby. If one steers too much to energy efficient and setup the tank in such a way that it is not what he wanted. Then there still be some form of regrets lingering in his mind every now n then.

Also, energy efficient comes with an initial high cost. The biz pple always talks about return of "investments". In this case is how long it takes for the expensive pump to help u save on $ on elect bills as compared to cheap pump.

It is also important to future proof the setup in case things does not turn well. When u reduce the height of cabinet to save on head loss, u also reduce the choices of skimmers. As sometimes it doesn't turn out to wat u want n u need a skimmer and u can't find one tat is so short in the market. In the end u buy n external skimmer and yr wife is grumpy all the time.

For my case, I'm bypassing the return of investment rule. Not a calculative person. So I just buy those energy efficient stuffs.

Stuffs tat are on 24/7 r the first to be change. So they are the return pumps.

Wave maker is vortech. So heat transfer is reduced as pump is not in water. Also u can set it to slow speed in night mode too. I read about a thread in reef central on someone comparing tunze, koralia, vortech in terms of noise, power n heat. Need go read up which consume more.

Next is led lightings if u want to save on electricity n chiller.

I feel the main components of equipments need to be energy efficient n also powerful enough to do the job. Else if buy multiple wavemakers, more heat is introduced to water.

I agree with u.. all my equipment are out of water to reduce heat transfer.

Vortech has a night mode?

I used to have an aquatronica to log chiller kick in times and to sync timing so it's most efficient..

That's the part if the hobby that interests me other then the marine life.. it's the brains and thinking.. at least that makes me think I'm smart.( just hanging around like-minded enthusiasts..). haha.

I think it will be cool if lfs doing setup can look towards setting up sustainable setups..

At least a know quite some reefers (older folks) whom gave up due to complexity.. actually it wouldn't be if choice if livestock is right..

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1. Reduced tank to sump height.. resulting in use of less powerful return pump to overcome the head loss..

Minimum tank to sump height will be when both are placed next to each other, which is equivalent to an IOS system with built-in sump. Then the return pump can be scaled down as there's minimal head loss.

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I agree with u.. all my equipment are out of water to reduce heat transfer.

Vortech has a night mode?

yes. night mode where u can set pump speed. I suppose cortex takes 35w for Max speed. So u can set the slowest speed for night but not sure how much lesser power. but should be worth it.

Tank size:36"x36"x24"

Return pump" 2x Reef Octo 5000

Skimmer:BK Double Cone 200 on Reef Octopus DC 5500s.

Wavemaker:2xVortech MP40wES

Chemical filtration:1xeducator FR(biopellets)

Chiller:1hp Daikin compressor.

Lighting:2 x Kessil A360we

Auto topup system: JBJ ATO + new jet 1200

Dosing system: Kamoer 3 channel.

Additives: ESV 2 part.

Power consumption

2XReef Octo 5000: 120watts

BK skimmer:50watts

2xVortech wavemaker:70watts

Daikin compressor:775watts

Lighting:180watts

Ato system:21watts

Exhaust fans:16watts

Refugium light:27watts

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Minimum tank to sump height will be when both are placed next to each other, which is equivalent to an IOS system with built-in sump. Then the return pump can be scaled down as there's minimal head loss.

yes.. I think that's might be the "future".. I liked some Bro's setup where the ios/sump is in the cabinet (or rather extended into cabinet, think Wilson's?).. definitely my next setup will b something like that..

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Anyone has got a watt meter to loan?

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I feel for a energy saving sustainable setup, equipment selection is important. I look at the wattage consumption of all my pump when i make purchase and i tried to have my pump placed outside of the sump tank to avoid adding heat into the water another important equipment to consider is chiller and lighting which take up majority of the energy consumption of the tank. Try to go for a Drop in coil compressor chiller and LED lighting as you will be surprise how much it save you on your electricity bill each month.

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With regards to chiller consumption, acrylic have a thermal conductivity of 0.2 W/(m.K) while glass is 1.05 W/(m.K)! That means a full acrylic setup (tank and sump) will keep the water cooler for longer. Of cos acrylic got cons ... For your consideration.

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Interesting.. that will also mean that if my ambient temp is lower, then a glass tank will conduct heat away easier? Reverse is true??.

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Interesting.. that will also mean that if my ambient temp is lower, then a glass tank will conduct heat away easier? Reverse is true??.

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That should be true, as the thermal conductivity act as a resistor between the different medium, i.e. water - glass - ambient.'

However our climate does not work in our favor ... Everyday is so hot hot !

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Interesting.. that will also mean that if my ambient temp is lower, then a glass tank will conduct heat away easier? Reverse is true??.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

To add, atmosphere have a conductivity of 0.024, while water is 0.58 ( salt water should be higher). So cooling the water directly should be more efficient than cooling through the air. Unless you get it free from really cold weather.

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Am profiling by chiller efficiency this weekend.

Objective to "tune" my chiller to obtain optimal results.

The suspect

post-3704-13447549605609_thumb.jpg

Arctica DBA-075 1/10 hp

Set @ 27.0 °c kicking in @ 27.5°c

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The tools

1. Power usage meter.

post-3704-13447554459338_thumb.jpg

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Suspect is drawing 187.7w, if running 12 hours a day, it will add $19.24 to my monthly electricity bill.

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Next tool

2. Seneye monitor.

post-3704-13447586488103_thumb.jpg

This is to determine the number of times my chiller kicks-in in a day.. and the duration to cool from 27.5 °c down to 27°c

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The Seneye Dashboard..

post-3704-0-75942300-1344758989_thumb.jp

Should be able to drill in to daily usage when data is captured.

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20 Aug: finally managed to get a consistent daily readings from the seneye monitor.

post-3704-0-52163100-1345394798.jpg

The device captures data at 30 mins intervals.

From the data, it seems the the following applies to my setup:

1. Setting on suspect to kick in at 27.5 degrees to chill down to 27 degrees takes 45 mins.

2. Suspect kicks in 10 times daily.

3. together with the power meter measure this will mean that the monthly operating cost for running my chiller will be $12.11

Next: Will an addition of a fan helps?

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I do have a query on your chiller placement... is there sufficient space behind? I'm not too sure how Arctica chillers work, but most chillers blow out hot air behind. If this hot air cannot clear efficiently, it may cause your chiller to work harder, thus contributing to more energy wastage.

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Am profiling by chiller efficiency this weekend.

Objective to "tune" my chiller to obtain optimal results.

The suspect

post-3704-13447549605609_thumb.jpg

Arctica DBA-075 1/10 hp

Set @ 27.0 °c kicking in @ 27.5°c

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

hi ryanlio,i'm using the exact Arctica DBA-075 1/10 hp

Set @ 27.0 °c kicking in @ 27.5°c same with u.

i remember the chiller is drawing ard 240watt,funny urs only 187 !

later i go hook up the watt meter and test again.

Too many hobby......too little money!

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I do have a query on your chiller placement... is there sufficient space behind? I'm not too sure how Arctica chillers work, but most chillers blow out hot air behind. If this hot air cannot clear efficiently, it may cause your chiller to work harder, thus contributing to more energy wastage.

Should it be cooler much faster? The output is unobstructed..

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hi ryanlio,i'm using the exact Arctica DBA-075 1/10 hp

Set @ 27.0 °c kicking in @ 27.5°c same with u.

i remember the chiller is drawing ard 240watt,funny urs only 187 !

later i go hook up the watt meter and test again.

Do keep me posted..

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