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Problems with NO3


piero
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Seachem De-Nitrate is small pieces of pepples or rock form. It's not a sponge & only works after a period of time when anaerobic bacteria grow in it. Not an immediate source to remove NO3. Also only good when yr NO3 is around 20ppm & it will helps lower it to maybe 10 or 5ppm.

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Is there any product in the mkt that can absorb NO3 fast & effective. I can't wait for my Seachem De-nitrate to kick-in. NO3 reading is still 100 mg/l (using Tetra test kit) after 50% water change.

I have a 3 ft refugium with Caulerpa on a 4' DSB, my NO3 is typically around 0.10 ppm.

Since you have a refugium and macroalgae, you can try extending your lighting hours in my refugium. Basically making the caulerpa work harder, and reduce the NO3. It worked for me when one of my starfish died and 'shot' my water.

However, you may want to monitor since caulerpa is known to go asexual and melt away, releasing the nutrients back into the water.

I can see some of mine whitening and melt away eventually, but I believe the overall export than compensates for it.

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Is there any product in the mkt that can absorb NO3 fast & effective. I can't wait for my Seachem De-nitrate to kick-in. NO3 reading is still 100 mg/l (using Tetra test kit) after 50% water change.

AZNO3 has been shown to reduce nitrates dramatically within a few days.

Try it. I used it before I made my DSB do all the hard work and cheaply too!

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sorie...nitrate sponge is not poly filter

entirely different thingy :wacko::wacko::wacko:

my nitrate sponge is little pebbles...dun make people blur leh :blink:

Sorrie if I misleaded any of you..

Poly filter also will remove some nitrate.. But not alot..

I think I need the nitrate sponge too.. Count me in if you are ordering..

:P

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AZNO3 has been shown to reduce nitrates dramatically within a few days.

Try it. I used it before I made my DSB do all the hard work and cheaply too!

AT,

I tried AZNO3 but it is not as effective as what u said. It sort of maintain nitrate level but fail to drop. Could it be my skimmer is not powerful enough? :erm:

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I think I go and make some sugar syrup.. Put into container, add label.. and get it patented..

TanGo's Miracle Denitrating Solution!! TMDS! $5 each.. Use a capful each time! 100% money back guarentee!

wow

Imagine all the LH tank owners.. queuing up to buy..

I think I am gonna be rich!!!

:idea:

:eyebrow:

Need a partner to boil water..

Anyone interested??

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yes, clams do absorb NO3, but very little. They need some NO3 for their growth. I find that clams do better when my NO3 level is ard 5-10ppm.

:yeah:

I noticed NO3 drop from 5ppm to 2ppm weeks after adding a clam

and now its around 0.5ppm

could be many other factor as well

:yeah:

hehehe...nothing to do wif NO3 adnormalities...jus clams make me go wild :upsidedown:

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Never tried on anything smaller than a 4ft.

For 60gal- half teaspoon sugar dissolved in 500ml warm water- then let cool to room temp.

1st dose of 500ml in the evening/nite- 2nd dose next day morning or lunchtime.

Cloudiness should appear within 2 days(if not means not enough sugar).

Nitrates drop on the 3rd or 4th day. Stays down for another 4-5days.

Skim as usual,feed fish as usual,lights as usual.

No harm to fishes, most corals & clams still open.(the odd few will close.My rose anemone & some zoos). but one week later u are back to square one! only a quick fix & nobody dare try long term usage yet.

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This is really the 1st time I heard of using sugar to reduce nitrate. I have done 6 times 25% water & on the 7th time a 60% water change. NO# still remained at 100mg/l. Yesterday did the 8th time 40% water change. Finally reading drops to 50mg/l. I hope I got the color reading right because I'm using the Tetra test kit. The Ograne color (50mg/l) & Red color (100mg/l) look almost the same.

I have also disconnected my powerhea from the UGF air-lift tube permanently & now relay on my Canister to do the bio-filtering. If NO3 does not drop further, I may have to use Sugar as my last solution :cry2:

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The best is a water change. UFO, now reading 50ppm- sounds like it will go back up to 100 in a week or 2.

The sugar is a temporary fix, used if u have no time for a water change. U have to find a permanent solution and try one of the many methods.

If u test for no ammonia & nirite means part of your biological is working perfectly, & you have to find the source of the nitrogen cycle & do something abt it, e.g high fish load, dead fish,rotting food.

The canister will not lower nitrates,no matter how long u wait. It is most probably your main workhorse converting the more toxic waste to nitrates.

UGF is a good biological filter if u want to just keep a few fishes(& i mean very FEW small ones), but u need to clean the substrate & often people just overload their tanks thus overloading the UGF - its pretty much an old school method of keeping fish. But if we stuck to these methods, no one would discover protein skimming,DSB,plenum,berlin.......methods

To get direct answers u need to tell everyone your tank details: tank size,sump/no sump,DSB/No DSB(or what is your substrate),filtration,skimming,No. of fishes & what else u keep.

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Bawater,

My Tank: 35” x 15” x 15” with 20lb LR & 20 lb base rock.

My current system: UGF with 3” sand run by a powerhead, 1 Ehiem 2028 Canister, 1 Redsea Prizm Skimmer, 1 add’l powerhead for circulation, 1 UV sterilizer, 1x2ft ZooMed Actinic Blue Fluorescent, 1x2ft ZooMed 10,000k Fluorescent.

My Fish stock: 1 Long Nose Hawkfish, 1 Six-line Wrasse, 1 Blue Damsel, 1 Maroon Clown, 1 Lawnmover Blenny, 1 2” Yellow Tang.

My Coral stock: 1 Brown Button, 1 Green Star Polyps, 1 Hairy Mushroom, 1 Brown Mushroom, 1 Finger Leather, 1 Leather Coral, 4 Feather Duster Tubeworm.

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