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Is garlic so useful?


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  • SRC Member

IMO garlic should be add as a preventive instead of a source for curing ich........ IMO having a quarantine tank is alot better and save the risk of other fish getting the infection

hahaha agree w u......like human....its best to prevent n to cure :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

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  • SRC Member

by intruding 1 regal tang, the ich kill 3 other fishes plus the tang..

boxfish is the sole survivor...

I have been feeding it with food soak in galic guard.....

not sure if that's working but there is much much less ich or whitespot on it's body now... a happier fat little guy again :D

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  • SRC Member

I read that ich has a dormant period, ie the protozoa will drop off, regroup, and lead to an even greater outbreak. During the dormant period, the aquarist is fooled into believing that the ich is gone, and hence stop treatment, only to experience a worse outbreak.

Hence it is advisable to continue with whatever treatment for at least a month.

Wonder where i read that from...

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Now trying to use the heater to higher the temp.

read it from the books.

Hi Ranger, are local or from a country with a cooler climate?

What is the temperature range you're referring to?

Increasing the temperature may allow the fish to metabolise antibiotic faster, but I'm uncertain if it can increase the life cycle of the parasite :huh:

Besides, if you have corals, it may not tolerate wide temperature fluctuations well and you may have a bigger problem at hand if they start to die.

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Hi Rumor,

It just local heater, have try for 2 night, set at 30c and will try 32c if the result it ok. white spot lesser but no appetite.

yes with coral but it seems to be ok. will keep an eyes on it.

any idea of what cause fishes to have white spot & ichy ? water problem.

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It just local heater, have try for 2 night, set at 30c and will try 32c if the result it ok. white spot lesser but no appetite.

yes with coral but it seems to be ok. will keep an eyes on it.

any idea of what cause fishes to have white spot & ichy ? water problem.

:huh: frankly, I'm kinda stumped ...

Anyway, I stronly suggest you keep the temperature at about 27-28 degrees celsius and keep it as constant as you possibly can . Marine life, particularly corals do not take flucutations well.

Marine "Ich" is caused by a ciliated protozoan called Cryptocaryon Irritans, these protozoans are ever present in any tank and will only attach itself to fishes with weak immunity to complete its life cycle.

Fishes with weak immunity is typically stressed due to hostile environment or questionable water quality.

Suggest you do a general search on the Internet for more information.

To solve this, address the problem, which could be poor water quality, hostile tank mates, or in a recent case, stray current from a lousy powerhead.

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Use of UV has been discussed as early as from SRC v1 until now.

It has been agreed that at the kind of intensity, and rate of water passing through it, it does not do more than giving the cells a tan. Think Tanzy has done some lab test on it before.

As the saying goes, 'what does not kill you, can only make you stronger', so it can be assumed that it may well be making it stronger.

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  • SRC Member

A method recommended by Julian Sprung and Charles Delbeek is to lower the tank sg to 1.017 for 2 days. This low sg kills the parasitic eggs and larva of ich.

However this method is only recommended in a fish only tank as the fishes will be able to tolerate thislow sg for a short period but not corals. If corals are involved, only 24hrs of treatment is recommended at max and even then under careful monitoring.

Please do not mess around with temp. Before it can have much or any effect on itch, everything else would have been dead. It is never advisable to have a temp above 30 degrees for anything more than 8 hrs. And anyway the benefits are not proven unless a temp of 35 degrees and above can be maintained in which case, yes ich will definitely be gone but so will everything else too.

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