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The Atlantis part 2


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once my rocks were in, i started the proper cycle by using the dry rock starter kit by brightwel. The box came with a ammonia source, microbactor start xlm and microbactor clean . 

Also i had added 1kg of maxspect bioshpere to my sump as well so bacteria can start growing on there as well.  

Reviews on the biosphere. Was quite impressed. i thought they would be much bigger in size but were about the size of a 50 cent coin. IMG_3973.jpeg.b118a14eb7258c2ee123e0090933ce30.jpegIMG_3975.jpeg.69e64473b83f0b5b201e03ee2a664d5c.jpegIMG_3974.jpeg.3e77acfaf87e37442eeac7fbf466a247.jpegIMG_3976.jpeg.e3e6959f1cc00191549955842e7e2537.jpegIMG_3963.jpeg.e5ff50d51c4ea8b7dfa7f4dea3f5b969.jpegIMG_3965.jpeg.035c4cc9b41c784e3d930e3788becbba.jpegIMG_3968.jpeg.a724812a1147287bc35671394cc90677.jpegIMG_3961.jpeg.6cbb23220c69c057777bb4c62e624cc0.jpeg

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I dosed enough ammonia to the tank that the ammonia reading should be 2ppm. later that night i tested my ammonia and was surprised i had no ammonia reading. i tested for a week straight and had no ammonia reading. For the first week i took it as my ammonia was at 0.25ppm since the color chart was hard to read and the water was slightly cloudy in the test. 3 weeks later i tested for nitrates and nitrates were present, at 50ppm. Tested ammonia and again no reading. i did a 100L water change. And dosed microbactor start xlm again.

Now the plan is that im trying to get more established bio media from other reefers to help seed the tank. As im going barebottom with this tank. Going barebottem will have its challenges in a new tank. Hence im trying to minimize that by using established bio media. 

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The chiller is finally up on the tank as well. Got a chiller from another reefer who had upgraded his chiller and had this as a spare. The chiller i got was a HS66a. The reefer was kind enough to let me use the chiller for a week to make sure its working properly before i pay him. The chiller was in great condition.  

I placed the chiller outside of my house right behind where the tank is. Theres a small window behind the tank, that leads to the chiller. The reason why i placed it outside is i heard alot of reefers say that its not good longterm for the chiller to be in the cabinet. And when the heat escapes in the cabinet it tends to heat the sump which makes the chiller work harder to cool the tank. 

The way i plumbed my chiller is my return pump is feeding my chiller and my chillers return is feeding to the tank display. Since im going with the BRS/WWC HYBRID on this tank, they recommend a tank turn over rate of 1-2x.  

The chiller has been set to 25 degrees. 

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Looking good.

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Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Inled R80 x 3 with 2  x Illumagic Vitamini Super Actinic LED Striplight Bars.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao SOW-16M, SLW-30M & SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump.

Water Top Up: Reef Octopus ATO.

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Over the weekend, moved my live rocks and fishes from the old tank to the new tank. The way i moved them was i moved the rocks first, this way it would be easier to catch the fishes later on. 1 mistake i made was catching the fishes with a net. Noob mistake. My blue tang and maroon got stuck in the net, the blue tang after a slight shake came off, and as the maroon, the net was stuck at its mouth. INSTANT PANICK mode. But after a few shakes and helping her, she was free. Acclimatised the fishes for about 90 min and finally put them into the tank. As normal all the fishes went into hiding. The next day my naso was swimming in the open, maroon was glass surfing and blue tang was wedged under a rock and my blue throat trigger fish was hiding. Not sure if the maroon was glass surfing because it was a new tank or stressed from the move or an injury caused by the net. After awhile once the light was on, still under the protection from the rocks they explored the new tank. The maroon, naso and hippo did come out abit and ate when i fed them. Only the trigger was still hiding. 

Before adding the fish to the tank i had dosed DR tims one and only and stress guard. And now the next few days Microbactor 7 

 

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For the lights on this tank, i went with hybrid T5 and leds. Got my Aquatic life hybrid fixture and decided to use them with my Hydra 26hd. As of now, only two blue bulbs and one hydra is running on the tank. As my other hydra is still on my old tank as i have not moved the corals yet. And as for the other t5 bulbs, the color i want was not in stock. Hence only 2 for now. 

As there was no way that i could mount my lights on the ceiling or the wall i mount them on the back of the tank using the aquatic life universal hanger fixture. 

What made it worse was when i wanted to drill the fixture in i did not have enough clearance to drill the fixture in. And the tank was filled so cant be moved too.  No choice needed to drill it in a weird angle to make do. So far the fixture seems steady. Hoping for the best. 

Had a long day will continue to update as i can. 

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now for the sump. With my old tank i didnt have a sump. Everything was hang on back, made me feel i missed out on a lot of filtration opportunity. Such as having a refugium for nutrient control and a place for pods to grow. Also recently someone told me i can grow live mysis in there as well. looking forward to that actually.

My Plan for the sump is simple and straight foward, i want most of the food and waste to be collected the moment it comes down the drain. So the plan for the future is to get those filter sock that i can tighten on the exits of both my drain and change them out every 3 days.  Followed by going through another filter pad and into the fitler cup and filter sock. I however am going to remove the filter socks and add a filter cup once i install the filter socks on the drains. The filter cup would carry seachem matrix and filter floss just to help out with clearing the water. As this is a new tank i feel much more comfortable having this much filter floss and filter pads as a safety net to prevent nutrient spike caused by any food and waste. As in my old tank the filter floss helped alot with that. From the picture attached you can see within less then 24 hours of putting the filter pad it has started turning brown. Maybe in the near future i might change the filter pad to a poly filter. 

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After going through the filter cups the water will go through, siphorax and my biosphere for biological filtrationIMG_0090.JPG.6853a7caa9c5ee355cc68997f043a168.JPG

After the biological filtration the water passes through the chetao for nutrient control. To keep the chaeto  tumbling and to promote water flow through the chateo since the water flow in my sump is reduced due to the filter pads and my sump turnover rate is only 2x per hour of the tank. i have added a small pump under the chateo. I also had added a bottle of Reef nutrient trigger pods. And in the future live mysis. I wanted to get the tunze refugium led but it was out of stock in most shops and i didnt want to spend so much money on another light i got a cheap led from carousell for $5 and so far its doing its job great. As of now the light is running 24/7 as i dont have a skimmer yet. Once i get my skimmer ill light the chateo opposite to the lighting of the tank, After much research i found out that lighting a chateo 24/7 is not good and the chateo does need a 8 hour rest period to help with photosynthesis, and to keep the chateo growing healthy and to prevent it melting or turning white. 

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Thanks to Reefmart sg for the speedy delivery of the T5 bulbs i ordered. The tank now looks so much more brighter and nicer with just the 4 t5 bulbs. Im running 2 gismen atlantic blue 1 ati coral plus and 1 purple plus.

 As of now i still only have 1 hydra 26HD on the 350 as the other hydra is still on my current tank as i have yet to move the corals.  IMG_0115.JPG.1b635d65cf295d6d3145a5f980fbecec.JPGUNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_132.jpg.5807fac24bc3e66fb89ff1ad35fbc8b9.jpgUNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_135.jpg.142bf1889be3bcd778c9902ab6afcba1.jpg 

Remember how i had one filter pad right before the water flows through the filter cup. I just changed it out today and this is how it looks like today, before i changed it out.

This is 3 days after. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Its been awhile since the last update on the tank. Have been really busy with things. 

Things have been running fine in the tank and the system has become an sps dominated system. 

As for my nutrients, my nitrates are undetectable and my po4 is at 0.03. 

Only issue i have been facing is the color on the sps. Most of them look dull. But have slowly started to color up. 

Another issue i just started facing recenty was dino. Im not sure if its a case of Dyno or Cyano. But its brown slimy and has bubbles. 

Gonna be treating it as dino for now. Will post the full battle plan once i have managed to get rid of them. 

Bottom are just pics of the tank before the dino outbreak. IMG_0478.jpg.37f8ed9c8a726245e1bb5b94fab0e94b.jpgUNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_27.jpg.baeaec1d7a964d5ebdd63fa36dd2dd9f.jpgIMG_0466.jpg.2af21a1535567f25e7a16a325b3b7ee3.jpgUNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_25.jpg.65d1ef5caa36e9f8696206d6305db99f.jpgIMG_0589.HEIC315482CB-A477-4D41-81A5-E4DDEDC98CD5.JPG.a69bbe2dd8c0527e8e300be4a1b7b7a3.JPG

 

 

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