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First Ich after that Velvet (Oodinium)


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Hi guys,

After my wife seen Roidan's AT she kept pestering me to get one too and so I got one last Saturday. Was reluctant cuz I am aware of the requiremant & temperament of AT.

Before I bought it I notice it has a couple of ich on its body but something I believe I will be able to manage.

Sunday, no more ich but have not seen it eating just pecking on LR. Tried feeding with Cyclopeese, Garlic soaked mysis / BS, Ocean Nutrition's pellets & Nori.

Last night went back and AT develop velvet! No choice but to use Exodin (Aqua Medic).

Any comments appreciated. ;)

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Bro, good luck with the AT. I tried once and failed after 3 weeks. My specimen just refuses to eat what i feed and keep on pecking on the LR and Red Bamboo shoots.

I think the major requirement for AT is very clean and stable water parameters including temp/Ph/Kh and you got to coax it to eat what you feed. Major hurdle.

Are you running UV/Ozone? Dunt know if it really helps with killing the free floating parasites but it wouldnt hurt if you have them..

Good Luck Bro with the fish. Hope you have better luck than i had..

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Yah loh, according to Robert Fenner, most AT can only have the maximum life span of 3 months if the conditions aren't right. :(

This morning when I check the velvet gone liao but I am still worried of it not feeding. :( Too bad government never implement hobby leave when they were implementing the baby leave. :P

Any success stories to share?

Any advises?

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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I run UV 10hrs a day. ;)

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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For the record, my salifin from CF (was feeding on pellets there) took 1.5 months before it started to eat anything.

My AT took around 1.5 months before it starts on nori and finally after nearly 4 months started on pellets.

My yellow tang (also from CF) took ard 1 months befor it started to feed.

During the time that they have not accept prepared food, they should be fine with just pecking on the LR.

If you had lots of LR with algae on it for it to peck then it should be fine.

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gouldian...i din know your wife liked my AT when she was looking at the tank..hehe

my AT is about 5 months already, also dunno stable or not...but at least it's eating even when having light bouts of white spot....as long it's willing to eat...i am willing to feed it....never mind worries of overfeeding...i have alot of fishes in there wanting to be fed especially those bartletts behind the rocks...

anyway, maybe u can try to leave your UV on 24hrs...firstly flicking the tube on and off will greatly shorten the useful life of the UV tube....secondly...some dun believe in UV's usefulness of aquarium units, so even if you use it 24/7, probably wun hurt anything...

try a few types of food till you see your AT respond, hope it responds to food fast enough before disease take its toll.....a feeding fish carrying disease has some chance of making it.....a non feeding fish carrying disease is a self imposed death sentence

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anyway, maybe u can try to leave your UV on 24hrs...firstly flicking the tube on and off will greatly shorten the useful life of the UV tube....secondly...some dun believe in UV's usefulness of aquarium units, so even if you use it 24/7, probably wun hurt anything...

I think UV does work. Don't see how living organisms can tahan UV, unless you have incredible-hulk-parasite :P

The issue really is, how powerful your UV is (wattage of light), the design (twister or straight flow-thru), the overall length (affected by the design) and flow rate of your pump. Ideally you want to expose the water to the UV as long as possible. This is achieved by a longer tube, a twister design, a slow flow rate, or all of the above. However, the slow flow rate will make it slower to cycle the whole tank water through the UV, which is also counter-productive.

Ultimately UV works, but only if you get one which is sufficiently powerful and large for the tank it is trying to sterilize, and matched with a pump that generates an ideal flow rate. My impression of people who make comments like "UV sux" either never tried using one before, or did not apply it properly to their tanks.

You should leave it on 24/7 for maximum effectiveness. It might kill plankton, but some reefers have expressed that their corals are fine, so I think it's not a problem.

Be teachable always, nobody has a monopoly on wisdom. But learn to distinguish "fact" from "opinion".

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Thank you all for your kind contributions.

I can't wait to go back to check on my AT and report back to you guys but guess have to wait till tomorrow cuz tonight got dinner at MOTHER IN LAWS place. :evil:

Thank you Weileong with your sharing, I dun feel so bad. ;)

Thank you Roidan, without you I will not dare embark on this meaningful journey by getting an AT! :evil: But seriously, I also like AT lah, just that no courage to get it until my wife bang table. ;)

:thanks::thanks::thanks:

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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She is the Home Affairs Minister not the Finance Minister. So if the FM never pay the HAM will put him into ISA detention!

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Good luck bro. By the way, where did you get the AT from?

###### ;)

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Sorry, should be P#$@^@z R(*&^f ;)

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Thanks, will be paying them a visit... considering if my tank is AT-Ready or not... hehehe

All the best! I noticed two other very good samples when I was there hope you get them. ;)

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Dear reefers,

Just wanted to update the situation of my AT. ;)

31/09, 8pm - 10.30pm No more Velvet. But Ich came back. AT did not take any pellets, garlic soaked mysis / BS but saw it took a few cyclopeese (nothing to be proud).

01/10, 7am No more ich. Still not eating. But noticed Halimenia (Red Algae) botak liao with some leaf scattled all over the tank. Hopefully it is the works of the AT> ;)

Wish me luck! :angel:

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Marine Ich life cycle involves the parasite detaching from the body of the fish and free-floating in the water before returning to attack the original host fish and others. This is the point where massive multiplication takes place (on the fish, just before bursting into the water). So it might look like the ich has left the fish but it could be just about to come back in full force. Gotta continue to monitor carefully.

Be teachable always, nobody has a monopoly on wisdom. But learn to distinguish "fact" from "opinion".

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my AT from Par@#$ Re#$ also got Ich. Quite serious, some more in my Q tank. But lucky thing, eating mysis bit by bit (drop in 1/2 a cube disappeared the next morning and also eating aquapharm marine veggies (nori) which i saw with my own eyes =) . dip in freshwater (pH: 8.2 and S.G. at 1.010 for 10 mins last night. now better. my Q tank is hypo salinated at 1.015 which i'll probably keep it there for a few more days before slowly increasing it back to 1.022. so should keep the ich at bay. fish is still swimming around doing ok.

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Read in RC that in order for hyposalinity to work, the SG should be kept at 1.009 or 14ppt for 6 weeks to fully kill all the ich.

Now I quarantinee my new fishes in my Q tub for 6 weeks before I introduce into my main tank. More trouble now and less headache later.

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Me using ozone, still got ich initally, but after using a few weeks, the ich disappeared liao, sometimes some of my LS would have one or two spots on their bodies, but it disappears after a day or two, so far this is my best spell since started reefing, fishes doing well and eating... except Purple Queens, they are all healthy, so I stopped buying fish, no more space liao, the last fish is my Sailfin, very healthy, started eating the moment it saw food!! Was a bit stunned when 1st introduced to my tank due to the long long period it was in the plastic bag in my car... :P

So my endorsement for ozone... go for it!! the water sparkling clean too!! :)

People do not plan to fail; Often they just fail to plan...

Wat I do to prevent myself from tearing my hair out... My stress remedy...

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My update:

AT still have ich, still refusing prepared food, all halymenia totally botak liao. Saw AT pecking on glass wall with green algae.

Should I add a Cleaner Wrasse or Cleaner Shrimp to help get rid of Ich on AT body?

Heard that CW only go for bid fishes and ignore smaller ones. Is it true?

Regards, ;)

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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