wat happen to my bubble coral

[damienkee]

I realise my fine bubble coral become like this last week.

here is the picture.

[damienkee]

here is the second picture.

[neokn]

Yo bro,

Your picture too big lah! Can resize so can see better.

[damienkee]

sori sori.... i tough bigger can c more clear ma... hahaha...

[damienkee]

red color is the area with problem, the blue color area i think will become like red area sooon...

[neokn]

sori sori.... i tough bigger can c more clear ma... hahaha...

True. But most pple don't have 19" monitor to view such a big picture, else those on 17" will have to change their resolution higher to view it.

1 wk and it still doesn't open up? Water perimeter? Light source? Height to light source?

[damienkee]

sori bro, i should prepare this earlier.

2 feet aquarium

2 X florecent light = blue & white

2 X fan

calcium =420

ph =8.2

Salinity =1.024

Temperature =27

NO2 & NO3 = no test at all, coz the fish shop owner told me if i have those green algae, then dun need to test. the green staff can stablilize the NO2 & 3.

-add Iodine weekly.

distance between coral & light is about 5 inch.

any suggestion?

[neokn]

Correct me if I'm wrong but I notice the red circle area seems not much light .

[damienkee]

i move it from the original place when i realise this happen, so i place it here with stronger current n hopping the current can blow off the die tissue. the original place is full of light.

my tank is about 1 1/2 years.

is not only the problem not open, but its like only the skin left, inside is empty already. last time, my goniopora oso like this, then no 1 can explain to me.

[AlfaRomeo]

Whats your Kh like?

I recently dropped my Kh to about 5 and the bubbles stopped opening and inflating.... after i restored it to 7-8, opened up again...

[kareen]

NO2 & NO3 = no test at all, coz the fish shop owner told me if i have those green algae, then dun need to test. the green staff can stablilize the NO2 & 3.

-add Iodine weekly.

I suggust a partial water change first. Also, u cannot blindly add additives into your tank without testing the parameter!

[damienkee]

I suggust a partial water change first. Also, u cannot blindly add additives into your tank without testing the parameter!

so i will try to change some water to nite.

and buy the NO2 n 3 tester.

[damienkee]

Whats your Kh like?

I recently dropped my Kh to about 5 and the bubbles stopped opening and inflating.... after i restored it to 7-8, opened up again...

i dun test kh, this oso the shop owner told me, kh is not so important.

actually, wat is kh. i ask the shop owner, he said hardness of the water.

wat is that means?

[typrobin]

i think your light is not enough...try to get t5...

and dun listen to tat LFS, wat green algae? wat does it mean by stabilise NO2 and NO3?? try to seek good advise from reputable LFS like our sponsors...they are very very resposible...

[Dispar_Anthias]

sori bro, i should prepare this earlier.

2 feet aquarium

2 X florecent light = blue & white

2 X fan

calcium =420

ph =8.2

Salinity =1.024

Temperature =27

NO2 & NO3 = no test at all, coz the fish shop owner told me if i have those green algae, then dun need to test. the green staff can stablilize the NO2 & 3.

-add Iodine weekly.

distance between coral & light is about 5 inch.

any suggestion?

Those light are not enough for any corals.... get a Pl at least..... also try not to add any additive which you dun test..... Lastly if you have lots of greenly algae it maybe that you are having some phosphate problem

[pisces]

Not sure if this is parasite infection but if it is then you might wanna try a dip in Lugol's iodine solution... I have read that it works for some.

[kareen]

Not sure if this is parasite infection but if it is then you might wanna try a dip in Lugol's iodine solution... I have read that it works for some.

I don't think so. U might stress the coral further by doing this.....

[damienkee]

so now i should get a pl or t5?

bside of lighting wat else should i do...

[kareen]

so now i should get a pl or t5?

bside of lighting wat else should i do... 

Go for T5. Do parital water weekly till you see improvement on corals. If the bubble coral mouth is 'open', feed him with small piece of market prawn, say weekly.

[livebait]

Corals and Bacterial Disease

by Albert J Thiel

Potential Causes

Corals are in an environment of real low water quality parameters:

High levels of total nitrate are often the cause of bacterial disease.

Total nitrate is calculated by taking the nitrogen-nitrate reading your test gave you, and multiplying that number by 4.4. Note that most tests on the market give results in N-NO3 and not in "total" nitrate. Normally the instructions that come with the test will say so. Some do not. If you are unsure about what your test really measures, you can always resort to calling the manufacturer.

When your N-NO3 level is high, e.g. between 60 and 80 ppm, your real nitrate level (total nitrate) is really between 260 and 350 ppm.

This is extremely high, and sure to endanger your corals and your fish as well. Fish suffer from high nitrate levels in the tank too. There is another document on our web site that deals with this in more detail.

High phosphate levels may contribute to this too, as they will result in wild, and sometimes totally unexpected, growths of undesirable micro-algae. These can, and often do, grow on the corals skeleton(s) and may start affecting the polyp too if the growth continues. Remember that some algae give off toxins (releasing them on the coral polyp if that is where the algae growth is occuring).

High silicate and silicic acid levels (ppm) give rise to the appearance of diatoms (hobbyists refer to them as brown algae). This can affect the corals too and often does (see below).

The real danger lurks when encrusting diatoms start to grow on the skeleton of the coral, start moving upwards along the skeleton, reach the polyp, and start pushing the polyp out of the way.

When this happens, the polyp detaches from the exoskeleton and loose fringes of polyp are/may become visible. Sometimes these polyps die off and holes or bare patches on the skeleton (missing tentacles of the polyp) are clear evidence that this is what is going on.

bro want to know more can go to this websitehttp://www.netpets.com/fish/fishref.html

hope your bubbles recovers soon

[Ancelot]

I agree with pisces. Seems sick to me.. i urge you to find the solution fast or you will lose this coral very soon.. seems like the infection spreading... sorry to tell you tat.. but i am speaking my mind..

[damienkee]

Corals and Bacterial Disease

by Albert J Thiel

Potential Causes

Corals are in an environment of real low water quality parameters:

High levels of total nitrate are often the cause of bacterial disease.

Total nitrate is calculated by taking the nitrogen-nitrate reading your test gave you, and multiplying that number by 4.4. Note that most tests on the market give results in N-NO3 and not in "total" nitrate. Normally the instructions that come with the test will say so. Some do not. If you are unsure about what your test really measures, you can always resort to calling the manufacturer.

When your N-NO3 level is high, e.g. between 60 and 80 ppm, your real nitrate level (total nitrate) is really between 260 and 350 ppm.

This is extremely high, and sure to endanger your corals and your fish as well. Fish suffer from high nitrate levels in the tank too. There is another document on our web site that deals with this in more detail.

High phosphate levels may contribute to this too, as they will result in wild, and sometimes totally unexpected, growths of undesirable micro-algae. These can, and often do, grow on the corals skeleton(s) and may start affecting the polyp too if the growth continues. Remember that some algae give off toxins (releasing them on the coral polyp if that is where the algae growth is occuring).

High silicate and silicic acid levels (ppm) give rise to the appearance of diatoms (hobbyists refer to them as brown algae). This can affect the corals too and often does (see below).

The real danger lurks when encrusting diatoms start to grow on the skeleton of the coral, start moving upwards along the skeleton, reach the polyp, and start pushing the polyp out of the way.

When this happens, the polyp detaches from the exoskeleton and loose fringes of polyp are/may become visible. Sometimes these polyps die off and holes or bare patches on the skeleton (missing tentacles of the polyp) are clear evidence that this is what is going on.

bro want to know more can go to this websitehttp://www.netpets.com/fish/fishref.html

hope your bubbles recovers soon

thanks bro.

[damienkee]

I agree with pisces. Seems sick to me.. i urge you to find the solution fast or you will lose this coral very soon.. seems like the infection spreading... sorry to tell you tat.. but i am speaking my mind..

i understand. so i will try my best......

[ryz]

get t5 HO

don't go buy the Normal Output t5s

[chselee]

so now i should get a pl or t5?

bside of lighting wat else should i do...

Well, you may consider getting 2 set of TWIN tubes DE T5 set

for your 2 footer. value for $$$