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Calling all FrogFish LOVERS :D


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Like to find out from anybody who keeps 2 or more frogfish in the same tank - have you observed any behavioural display (rather aggression or not) from one frogfish towards another? There is a stiffening of the body, full extension of fins, brightening of colouration and body jerks, whic may persist for around 15 to 30 minutes.

ya i notice .. their behaviour looks sort of like fighting fish .. :)

currently having 3 froggies :P

cheers :):angel:

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Dear Froggipanis:

2 very nice wartskin frogfish (Antennarius maculatus) sighted @ ML - 1 big, 1 small. Big one super nice - very visible and even distributed warts on the skin.

:D

yap happen to drop by ML today .. :) nice colour hehe bu ti still like mine better :P hehe

cheers :D

post-8-1130606145.jpg

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Bro Lester,

Do you notice if this behaviour affect the froggy's appetite?

yap .. mine everytime after meal would like to reteat and hide.. like resting on one spot for quite long .. think they are only active when hungry .. when full they normally do nothing.. just sit and stare :P

:heh:

how i wish i would be like them :D

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dear bros,,

juz got back from HK, :angry: tried to get fish into spore, according to AVA,, hand carry can... but i face problem when the airline refuses entry for live stock... :sick: then alots of problem.... :sick::sick::sick:

eventually my fish in my tank now... swimming... its a big angel (emperor) :yeah::yeah::yeah:

anyway,,, will check with the AVA again. update you guys again... <_<

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hi guys

Latest Update.....

Froggipani Club

get along session

-------------------------------------------

1) LEster

2) Shawn

3) Derek

4) yellowfin tuna

5) ciaolong

6) marinefish

7)

8)

hmmmm say we meet around 7pm at jalan kayu???? set ???

cheers

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Hi all! Am very new into marine fishes, my 1st fish in the tank was a goby, second, a 2 inch frogfish ( striped & hairy ) which I bought yesterday, n........it swallowed my goby :sick:

Is it a must for frogfish to be isolated from other species of marine fishes?

Have got lots more to learn from u guys here :thanks:

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they can swallow things 1.5 times its size if im not wrong..so just be careful there.

hey yellowfish tuna what airline did you take? im going HK soon too

SQ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! our beloved airline......... :evil:

anyway,, my emperor is swimming in heaven now :cry2::cry2::cry2: ....

Advise to the rest of you guys,,, the fishes overseas are always nice to look at,, but have to seriously consider that their water parameters, their tap water,, etc is so different from ours.

I went down to a lfs to test my water using their mini lab,,,

i am not saying i have the best water condition,

NH3 0.02

NO2 0.001

NO3 5.5

Ph 8.05

but given the result, the water shld be good for fish only tank.... the onli conclsion,, was i did not acclimatise the fish... advice given after yesterday tragic :cry: ,,

put the oversea/new fish in a pail with his own water from the shop, use an air hose to suck water from your own tank into the pail, top up twice or thrice the amt of the water in the pail. that is one part of water from shop to 2 or 3 part of water from your tank,,, after that is done,,, wait for a while before intro the fish to your tank. guess thur this form of acclimatisation shld increase chance of survival in your tank...

another point to note, fishes in HK are not as hardy, given that the mentality in HK is fishes are expendable, die? buy again,, that is how it explains the lower price in their fish. All their tanks are packed with fishes. when they order in bulk the fish naturally will be cheaper. However, their equipment is supposedly to be cheaper,, like the german brands. maybe you can check their equipment out.

not much froggie there, all the common ones.... not worth buying.. given the tragic that just happened to me... :sick:

anyway, if you guys have bought fish overseas and is thriving in your tank, :bow:

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ermm your ph a bit low side usally 8.2 to 8.4 is ok

your ammonia is on the high side it should be undectable .... (ammonia is posion to fish)

how long is your acclimatisation period with that hk fish ?

when i get stock from over east i usally take 1 + almost like inverts first i put them on a drip which does usally about 1-2 per sec also i add a air stone in the bucket to help the water merge together and increase the air in the water (one problem with long acclimatisation is the lack of o2)

also i dont know anything how the hk fish are caught but if using cyanide it will reduce the chance of the fish living....

all fish in aus are caught with net and if they imported they usally chcek on the collect to make sure they also using net

australia is very strict on these type of stuff (i guess cause they love their nature)

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Sources: BSAVA Manual of Ornamental Fish and Fish Medicine by Stoskopf

Marine systems -

pH: seawater usually 8.0 to 8.5, varies between 7.5 to 9.0.

alkalinity: 2.5 mEq/L

dissolved oxygen: not below 4 ppm for warm water fish. 6 ppm should be target safe level.

total ammonia-nitrogen: >1 ppm indicates pollution and 2-3 ppm cause for concern. Unionised ammonia is more toxic than ionised ammonia. Max safe level for unionised ammonia is 0.025 ppm (1st source); suggested safe level for unionised ammonia ranges from 0.01 to 0.2 ppm (2nd source).

nitrite-nitrogen: >1.0 ppm can kill fish. Aim for <0.1 ppm. Chloride ions offer some protection against high nitrite concentration - as in marine systems.

nitrate-nitrogen: toxic level is >1000 ppm. Aim for <10 ppm.

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Sources: BSAVA Manual of Ornamental Fish and Fish Medicine by Stoskopf

Marine systems -

pH: seawater usually 8.0 to 8.5, varies between 7.5 to 9.0.

alkalinity: 2.5 mEq/L

dissolved oxygen: not below 4 ppm for warm water fish. 6 ppm should be target safe level.

total ammonia-nitrogen: >1 ppm indicates pollution and 2-3 ppm cause for concern. Unionised ammonia is more toxic than ionised ammonia. Max safe level for unionised ammonia is 0.025 ppm (1st source); suggested safe level for unionised ammonia ranges from 0.01 to 0.2 ppm (2nd source).

nitrite-nitrogen: >1.0 ppm can kill fish. Aim for <0.1 ppm. Chloride ions offer some protection against high nitrite concentration - as in marine systems.

nitrate-nitrogen: toxic level is >1000 ppm. Aim for <10 ppm.

Bro synanceia, have you been to J & J?

went yesterday, they came in alot of frog fish...but not what i looking for. :P

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Sources: BSAVA Manual of Ornamental Fish and Fish Medicine by Stoskopf

Marine systems -

pH: seawater usually 8.0 to 8.5, varies between 7.5 to 9.0.

alkalinity: 2.5 mEq/L

dissolved oxygen: not below 4 ppm for warm water fish. 6 ppm should be target safe level.

total ammonia-nitrogen: >1 ppm indicates pollution and 2-3 ppm cause for concern. Unionised ammonia is more toxic than ionised ammonia. Max safe level for unionised ammonia is 0.025 ppm (1st source); suggested safe level for unionised ammonia ranges from 0.01 to 0.2 ppm (2nd source).

nitrite-nitrogen: >1.0 ppm can kill fish. Aim for <0.1 ppm. Chloride ions offer some protection against high nitrite concentration - as in marine systems.

nitrate-nitrogen: toxic level is >1000 ppm. Aim for <10 ppm.

hi,, thanks alot for the info,,, so mine falls just fine based on the water parameters you stated.,,,, anyway i off topic for a while liao... sorry.... back to the froggies....

:angel:

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Hi bro Derek,

I went on Monday, saw 3 froggies, 2 local brown and 1 brownish red. What other froggies came in? Do you know the price for the frogfish?

Yap bro. saw the same too..... he told me the brownish red was red when it came in but fade away. didn't like so didn't check out the price.

Btw, Henry got a 3inch yellow warty which is quite nice.

Ah beng also got a white warty going for $120.Quite nice also....

Check it out bro..... :P

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hey yellow

are u coming to the first meeting :P ?

i am finally in singapore i dont have a singapore sim card yet but once i get it i post if u need help just sms me :D

woooo dam i missed singapore soo good i ate my wanton mee for first time after about 1 year ><!!!!

anyway i see u guyz on 5th ?

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