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Mushrooms secrets....


Sotong
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Hi

Any secret on how to keep mushrooms healthy?

Have not been sucessful with them, always drop off from their rocks. :angry:

Beside, good water parameters, good lightings & low flow, what other things to take note of? :)

Thanks in advance. :thanks:

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hi bro

i find that my mushrooms need blue lights. i used to run just mh without blue lights and i had a rock of mushrooms that slowly faded away. after i introduced blue lights, they started opening big and recovering.

i also noticed that they preferred iodine dosing...when i dose, they reproduced very fast compared to when i stopped totally.

and i do believe mushrooms prefer slightly dirty water because from my observation, they seem to do better before i changed to a beckett.

that's all i can contribute for these corals

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The stalk for my mushies just stretch & thin until break off from rock.

I'm having problems recently with them....

I not very which is it but they need appropriate PH or CA level because

if I don't drip my kalk regularly, they don't open as nice.

Bro shoelevy,

They need blue light for colour to be intense.

I tried baking a frag under actinic light for a wk

& then put in back into main tank. The colour

difference was obvious. :lol:

Hope my exp helps.

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1. Blue light... best to have Actinic (brand no need to mention)

2. No so clean water (just like mine)

3. Need dose iodine (I also did that)

That why bro Jervis mentioned that my mushy seem to grow faster and bigger than his :lol:

P/S: Purely from my point of view only. You may disagress ;)

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Blue light???

That I'm surprise. Blue light does enhance the color but not exactly life supporting. I using 6500K for coral growth. My biggest mushie is 4" when expended.

Iodine also enhance the color.

As for CA, it is really for hard coral, not so much with softie. But it does affects PH and KH to a certain extend. Thats why we drip... for slow adjustment but not PH shock.

Equipment:

30G Corner Tank with 10G Sump, 2 x 24W artinic T5, 1 x 24W 10K, 1x 24W 20K, 3" Grade 0 sand & Live rocks, Activated Carbon, Bio-home, 2 x Seio M620, Hailea 1/2HP Chiller, Redsea Pro Skimmer

Live Stock:

Turbo Snail x 1, Green Mandarin Dragonet X 2, Blue Tang X 2, True percular x 2, 1 x Algae Bleenie, Clarke clown x 2

Reef:

1 x 2" Blue maxima, Red/Brown/Purple Mushroom (Discosoma), Pink Ricordea yuma, A little colony Brown/Green common Zoanthus, Red/Pink/Green US Zoanthus, Eagle-eye Zoathus, 14 Branch Goniopora Pandoraensis, 1 Starburst Polyps, 3 + 2 Branch Frogspawn, 4 Blasto, palythoa, Cheato

RIPs (Since June 2005):

1. Sabae clown (KO by Clarke clown) 2. 1 branch melted frogspawn 4 branch 3. Golden maxima (Ripe the base off rock by me) 4. Algae Bleenie x 2 (Starvation) 5. Blue Maxima x 1, 2 x Maxima, 1 x frogspawn, rics (Overtemp...)

Old 30G Corner Tank.

Restarted 30G Corner Tank.

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Iodine in excess will cause algae growdth.

Use with caution. :rolleyes:

nakazoru,

Yah, CA affects PH & KH but since I don't have

test kit so I don't know which is lacking.

I just drip but not regular. Maybe thats why my

mushroom garden no more liao....

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Hi

Thanks for sharing... :thanks:

I am using 24W T5 HO 2xblue pro, 1x20K white & 1x10K white. Aquaz tubes. Not sure if T5 tubes comes with Actinic, any to recommend?

Iodine, calcium, stronium(Seachem) i dose weekly.

Have not switch on my seio for a week + but the mushie still drop off....

However, i have notice those single frag big mushie survive better than those many frags on a piece of rock kind.

Water should not be that clean as i am using weipro 2012...

Perhaps just no luck with them even though mushies are recognise as one of the "easier" kind to keep... :(

Sianz mann.... :snore:

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do you actively measure your parameter? IMHO, its quite dangerous to dose Calcium if you don't measue it....might be safe to get a good salt mix and change water regularly....

Hi

I dun check the parameters leh..... <_<

Using Marine Environment salt & does monthly 20% water change.

When I slow down the flow, & turn it away from the mushie, in the tank for the past week; the mushie appears to be better.... :D

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The stalk for my mushies just stretch & thin until break off from rock.

I'm having problems recently with them....

I not very which is it but they need appropriate PH or CA level because

if I don't drip my kalk regularly, they don't open as nice.

Bro shoelevy,

They need blue light for colour to be intense.

I tried baking a frag under actinic light for a wk

& then put in back into main tank. The colour

difference was obvious. :lol:

Hope my exp helps.

actually i've been thinking which is better for colours

BLUE PRO or ACTINIC?

they are very different in terms of appearance when u look at the lamps.

any input?

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Excessive dissolved calcium, does not really cause too much harm to reef. It is the PH shock that it may create if you dose kalkwasser without slow dripping. Kalkwasser in most cases, maintain the calcium and dun really adds to the calcium reading (Almost very rarely it shot beyond 500 as I only topup with kalkwasser water).

As for the lights, Blue Pro and actinic are really blue tube that deviates in spectrum, having said that, it depends on manufacturer. Amazingly same spectrum actinic tube looks different with different manufacturer.

If you want to see a great color of the coral, try the true actinic from D&D. You will see the difference.

Equipment:

30G Corner Tank with 10G Sump, 2 x 24W artinic T5, 1 x 24W 10K, 1x 24W 20K, 3" Grade 0 sand & Live rocks, Activated Carbon, Bio-home, 2 x Seio M620, Hailea 1/2HP Chiller, Redsea Pro Skimmer

Live Stock:

Turbo Snail x 1, Green Mandarin Dragonet X 2, Blue Tang X 2, True percular x 2, 1 x Algae Bleenie, Clarke clown x 2

Reef:

1 x 2" Blue maxima, Red/Brown/Purple Mushroom (Discosoma), Pink Ricordea yuma, A little colony Brown/Green common Zoanthus, Red/Pink/Green US Zoanthus, Eagle-eye Zoathus, 14 Branch Goniopora Pandoraensis, 1 Starburst Polyps, 3 + 2 Branch Frogspawn, 4 Blasto, palythoa, Cheato

RIPs (Since June 2005):

1. Sabae clown (KO by Clarke clown) 2. 1 branch melted frogspawn 4 branch 3. Golden maxima (Ripe the base off rock by me) 4. Algae Bleenie x 2 (Starvation) 5. Blue Maxima x 1, 2 x Maxima, 1 x frogspawn, rics (Overtemp...)

Old 30G Corner Tank.

Restarted 30G Corner Tank.

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Excessive dissolved calcium, does not really cause too much harm to reef. It is the PH shock that it may create if you dose kalkwasser without slow dripping. Kalkwasser in most cases, maintain the calcium and dun really adds to the calcium reading (Almost very rarely it shot beyond 500 as I only topup with kalkwasser water).

As for the lights, Blue Pro and actinic are really blue tube that deviates in spectrum, having said that, it depends on manufacturer. Amazingly same spectrum actinic tube looks different with different manufacturer.

If you want to see a great color of the coral, try the true actinic from D&D. You will see the difference.

so in choosing between blue pro and actinic lamps for colouring up of corals it would be wiser to pick actinic?

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It will be wiser to look at the spectrum rather than the name. True actinic comes peak at 420nm and blue pro approx 450nm.

Iodine increase algae... Not that I know, check if the bottled iodine contains PO4.

Equipment:

30G Corner Tank with 10G Sump, 2 x 24W artinic T5, 1 x 24W 10K, 1x 24W 20K, 3" Grade 0 sand & Live rocks, Activated Carbon, Bio-home, 2 x Seio M620, Hailea 1/2HP Chiller, Redsea Pro Skimmer

Live Stock:

Turbo Snail x 1, Green Mandarin Dragonet X 2, Blue Tang X 2, True percular x 2, 1 x Algae Bleenie, Clarke clown x 2

Reef:

1 x 2" Blue maxima, Red/Brown/Purple Mushroom (Discosoma), Pink Ricordea yuma, A little colony Brown/Green common Zoanthus, Red/Pink/Green US Zoanthus, Eagle-eye Zoathus, 14 Branch Goniopora Pandoraensis, 1 Starburst Polyps, 3 + 2 Branch Frogspawn, 4 Blasto, palythoa, Cheato

RIPs (Since June 2005):

1. Sabae clown (KO by Clarke clown) 2. 1 branch melted frogspawn 4 branch 3. Golden maxima (Ripe the base off rock by me) 4. Algae Bleenie x 2 (Starvation) 5. Blue Maxima x 1, 2 x Maxima, 1 x frogspawn, rics (Overtemp...)

Old 30G Corner Tank.

Restarted 30G Corner Tank.

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It will be wiser to look at the spectrum rather than the name. True actinic comes peak at 420nm and blue pro approx 450nm.

Iodine increase algae... Not that I know, check if the bottled iodine contains PO4.

lol

so then i rephrase my question

if given a choice between 420nm and 450nm, which would be a wiser choice for colouring up of corals?

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lol

so then i rephrase my question

if given a choice between 420nm and 450nm, which would be a wiser choice for colouring up of corals?

Sorry miss this. World cup blues.

420nm

Equipment:

30G Corner Tank with 10G Sump, 2 x 24W artinic T5, 1 x 24W 10K, 1x 24W 20K, 3" Grade 0 sand & Live rocks, Activated Carbon, Bio-home, 2 x Seio M620, Hailea 1/2HP Chiller, Redsea Pro Skimmer

Live Stock:

Turbo Snail x 1, Green Mandarin Dragonet X 2, Blue Tang X 2, True percular x 2, 1 x Algae Bleenie, Clarke clown x 2

Reef:

1 x 2" Blue maxima, Red/Brown/Purple Mushroom (Discosoma), Pink Ricordea yuma, A little colony Brown/Green common Zoanthus, Red/Pink/Green US Zoanthus, Eagle-eye Zoathus, 14 Branch Goniopora Pandoraensis, 1 Starburst Polyps, 3 + 2 Branch Frogspawn, 4 Blasto, palythoa, Cheato

RIPs (Since June 2005):

1. Sabae clown (KO by Clarke clown) 2. 1 branch melted frogspawn 4 branch 3. Golden maxima (Ripe the base off rock by me) 4. Algae Bleenie x 2 (Starvation) 5. Blue Maxima x 1, 2 x Maxima, 1 x frogspawn, rics (Overtemp...)

Old 30G Corner Tank.

Restarted 30G Corner Tank.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • SRC Member

Does the colour of the mushroom indicate the ease or difficulties of keeping ? eg Green shroom are easier than perhaps than red ones ?

Are all the shrooms supposed to place on the sandbed or lowest level ? Cos i read some books indicating that non green shroom can be placed on the medium to highest level. reason being these shroom are non green (red,orange ) becos they are adapting to UV light since they are nearer to the surface.

How true are these ? Can anyone shed some light ?

Thanks.

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  • 2 months later...

Mushrooms do not usually have zooxanthellae, so they do not need to be near a light source for photosynthesis. They therefore prefer to be kep at the lower levels of the tank.

As someone advised earlier, it is unwise to dose many different types of elements if you do not do any tests. I did that before and eventually everything perished. So if you keep only mushrooms and some other soft corals that are less demanding, it would be best and easier to just carry out more frequent partial water changes as the synthetic salt mix would already provide sufficient nutrients until the next water change.

God luck!

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