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What causes corals to melt?


mansiz
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Hi bros, I'm wondering what causes LPS corals like (octo, hammer, bubbles, torch) to melt away? Because most of the time when someone ask about why their corals melt off, they would get the reply of brown jelly diseases. But what could be some of the possible reasons that corals melt off? I know that it could be due to certain factors, like PH, NO3, PO4. Are there other factors that causes it? For lighting I think the most it will cause them to bleach right? Hope to get some points here so that we could forcus on that factors instead of letting them die off one after another.

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  • SRC Member

n high calcium level...too strong lightings may also be the cause..

view my 2ft tank thread update here!!

http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=36399

Tank Dimension: 24'x15'x19' with black silicon. All round 8mm.

Equipments:

Return Pump : Hailea HX6540

Skimmer/Chiller : Sicce 2500lph

Skimmer : Weipro 2011

Lightings: 4xT5s HO..2 20,000k & 2 Blue Pro(Aquaz) Retrofits

Chiller : Resun CL280

Auto Water Top Up

Life Stock:

More then 35kg of figi rocks

Blue Tang, Powder Blue Tang, Bristletooth tang, Clown Tang, Yellow Tang, Purple Tang, Flame Angel, Six Line Wrasse, Sunrise Dottyback. 2 Cleaner Shrimp

Green Bubble, Orange Yuma, Hammer, True Octopus, Acans,

Frogspawn, Green/Orange Cyannaria, Red Prata, Red Open Brain, Star Polyp, Acan Enchinata

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  • SRC Member

They melt bcos they die mah...

101 reason...

Common in order:

1. Water parameters -> Stress -> melt

2. Sting -> Sure melt depending on what coral sting

3. Flow -> Bleach first -> Slowly melt over time, maybe 1 week

4. Light -> Bleach first -> Slowly melt over time

5. Temp -> Depending on how high temp -> may be instant...

6. Brown Jelly Disease -> If water good, very little chance to melt...

Equipment:

30G Corner Tank with 10G Sump, 2 x 24W artinic T5, 1 x 24W 10K, 1x 24W 20K, 3" Grade 0 sand & Live rocks, Activated Carbon, Bio-home, 2 x Seio M620, Hailea 1/2HP Chiller, Redsea Pro Skimmer

Live Stock:

Turbo Snail x 1, Green Mandarin Dragonet X 2, Blue Tang X 2, True percular x 2, 1 x Algae Bleenie, Clarke clown x 2

Reef:

1 x 2" Blue maxima, Red/Brown/Purple Mushroom (Discosoma), Pink Ricordea yuma, A little colony Brown/Green common Zoanthus, Red/Pink/Green US Zoanthus, Eagle-eye Zoathus, 14 Branch Goniopora Pandoraensis, 1 Starburst Polyps, 3 + 2 Branch Frogspawn, 4 Blasto, palythoa, Cheato

RIPs (Since June 2005):

1. Sabae clown (KO by Clarke clown) 2. 1 branch melted frogspawn 4 branch 3. Golden maxima (Ripe the base off rock by me) 4. Algae Bleenie x 2 (Starvation) 5. Blue Maxima x 1, 2 x Maxima, 1 x frogspawn, rics (Overtemp...)

Old 30G Corner Tank.

Restarted 30G Corner Tank.

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  • 5 years later...

Also don't forget the most important salinity. Most of us go out and buy a refractometer and swear by it to give us accurate reading. Happened to me and was running my tank at 1.031 for long time. Although it did not cause massive die off but a third of my new additions didn't make it. Turn out that my refractometer is out and cannot be cal properly.

With regards to calibration, most will want you to cal using di/ro or distilled water at 20degrees. Firstly, a stable 20 degree is not easy to achieve at home. Second, if you are given a choice of a one point calibration, sg of 1.000 is far away from our target measurement of 1.026. Engineering will tell you that if a one point cal is the only choice, you will do it at the point of the target measurement. Even if your meter's span is out, it will still be accurate at sg 1.026.

Now I am only using a salinity standard solution to cal my refractometer. Pinpoint do have one that is 1.026. With this you will not require 20 degree room temperature and can be performed at room temperature.

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