frogspawn

[straydum]

has anyone kept them for really long? i seem to have really bad luck with them. bought two, two die. but my other corals (hammer, torch, bubble etc) all doing fine, and well too.

i don't understand why they just die off in my tank. the latest one i got started to shed off the brownish slime on its skeleton then now its a white skeleton with the green mass in the centre. the polyps are also slowly withering away

my water readings are okay, tested this morning,

nitrate: 20.0ppm

nitrite 0.0ppm

alkalinity (kh): 9dkh

pH: 8.4

ammonia: 0.00ppm

sg: 1.024

ca: ~480

mg: ~1450

[ckevin]

Very much depends on the source and whether it was a healthy specimen u started with. It is a delicate coral at the beginning, but once fully settled in ur tank, it is very hardy. It is very important when choosing a true octo. Do make sure that the skin wrapping the lower part of the skeleton is healthy and not brown or receding. Secondly, try to make sure that it opens very healthily. The person packing it must also take extra care to fan the polys until they close up before removing from water. Otherwise, the weight/pressure from the inflated polyps may stretch too much and hurt the specimen.

I do not acclimatise my coral to my tank and so far i have been lucky so i cannot comment on whether the extra effort makes a difference.

Do take note that high intensity light when introduce abruptly may 'burn' the octo, causing it to spit blood and eventually die.

Maybe some other bros can share with u their experience with this beautiful coral.

has anyone kept them for really long? i seem to have really bad luck with them. bought two, two die. but my other corals (hammer, torch, bubble etc) all doing fine, and well too.

i don't understand why they just die off in my tank. the latest one i got started to shed off the brownish slime on its skeleton then now its a white skeleton with the green mass in the centre. the polyps are also slowly withering away

my water readings are okay, tested this morning,

nitrate: 20.0ppm

nitrite 0.0ppm

alkalinity (kh): 9dkh

pH: 8.4

ammonia: 0.00ppm

sg: 1.024

ca: ~480

mg: ~1450

[RockyBoy]

Those delicate corals will be ok if the tank has been long established, may be after 3 years. Not just perfect perimeters on the testkits.

[boxerz]

Frogspawn and octo have slight difference there. Your salinity is a bit low here, try raising it to 1.025. Your nitrates are a bit high, but that will not kill them.

I got to agree on the specimen health when purchasing. Things to look out for before buying :

Good polyp extension

No sign of jelly like substances around or on the tissue

No sign of damage to tissue, ie exposure of skeleton at tissue area

When introducing to tank :

Acclimation is recommended, no more than 2 hours because it can cause more harm to the specimen.

Try as much as possible not to allow the tissue to have any contact with your hands, or knock them into LRs or other hard objects. Some corals are very stressed out and trauma to their tissue can cause rapid necrosis that becomes impossible to save when infection sets in.

Otherwise this coral is really nice and hardy.

[ckevin]

Those delicate corals will be ok if the tank has been long established, may be after 3 years. Not just perfect perimeters on the testkits.

Don quite agree here . Depends on experience really.

[angelfishlover]

I thought their care is similar with hammer too?Anyways all the euphyllia corals try not to touch their tentacles and always look out for big opening specimen as shrunk specimen maybe dying(i said maybe but better be safe than sorry so try not to buy it).True octo is the one with loads of pimples on the tentacles one.

For light i suggest if your tank is using MH and the tank is shallow put it at the bottom of the tank or mid.Put at the top sure burn.Moderate current is more than enough.High current will kill em!!You say about shed browning stuff i will be guessing the brown jelly infection.....

[yikai]

brown stuff can be 2 things. either brown jelly, or expelling waste/zooxanthaelle. the 2nd is harmless. first one is very hard to treat.

for all euphyllids, they are not terrible difficult to care for. as long as u follow this u should be fine

- moderate wave.

- ABSOLUTELY NO strong laminar flow. it will tear the tissue off the skeleton

- if using MH, place at bottom or somewhere shady.

- if using T5, place mid to top.

- occasional feeding is fine. mysis will do. if u wan feed prawn, once every 2 weeks is enuf.

- never over feed ur LPS. they will die.

follow this general guideline and ur euphyllids should thrive. they do appreciate some nitrates. 5-10ppm is fine.

[Gouldian]

has anyone kept them for really long? i seem to have really bad luck with them. bought two, two die. but my other corals (hammer, torch, bubble etc) all doing fine, and well too.

i don't understand why they just die off in my tank. the latest one i got started to shed off the brownish slime on its skeleton then now its a white skeleton with the green mass in the centre. the polyps are also slowly withering away

my water readings are okay, tested this morning,

nitrate: 20.0ppm

nitrite 0.0ppm

alkalinity (kh): 9dkh

pH: 8.4

ammonia: 0.00ppm

sg: 1.024

ca: ~480

mg: ~1450

IMHO, I think the problem could be Nitrate, personally I try to keep Nitrate to below 5ppm.

You may want to read the following link by Albert Thiel - http://www.athiel.com/lib/bacterial.html

HTH

[straydum]

thanks for everyone's inputs! and Gouldian that link was really helpful

today hammer having brown jelly at the side. did a iodine dip and it looks abit better.

i think its a octo but was sold to be as a frogspawn. the two largest heads showed polyp extention in the tank and it seem relatively well. then in the evening for some reason everything went in and the problem started. i'd do a water change to get rid of the nitrates and maybe increase my cheato amount in the sump. the flow the corals are getting are somewhat the same so i don't think too much flow or too little is the problem (the torch hammer and bubble and deceased frogspawn were all at the same tank level getting 96w of T5 over a 22g.

i dont feed my LPS aside the bubble which actually takes food from me. the rest don't seem to bother. any ideas on how to feed them?

[angelfishlover]

Just drop fish pellets or shrimps on em.But Euphyllias doesn't have sticky tentacles for some reason.Hmm it's official brown jelly infection.Get rid of all the infected corals and suck as much jellies from the affected coral as you can.

Oh don't let any of the jelly float around in your tank.If land on other corals,too bad they will have it sooner or later......

[straydum]

yeah i know i should get a UV soon to try to prevent any potential spreads lurking. when i get home today then i'd get to check on everything. thanks everyone

[yooyoo99]

thanks for everyone's inputs! and Gouldian that link was really helpful

today hammer having brown jelly at the side. did a iodine dip and it looks abit better.

i think its a octo but was sold to be as a frogspawn. the two largest heads showed polyp extention in the tank and it seem relatively well. then in the evening for some reason everything went in and the problem started. i'd do a water change to get rid of the nitrates and maybe increase my cheato amount in the sump. the flow the corals are getting are somewhat the same so i don't think too much flow or too little is the problem (the torch hammer and bubble and deceased frogspawn were all at the same tank level getting 96w of T5 over a 22g.

i dont feed my LPS aside the bubble which actually takes food from me. the rest don't seem to bother. any ideas on how to feed them?

Normally i will cut away the whole infected branch with brown jelly (branch type). Base on my experience, dipping in whatever is of no use, and you may risk spreading to the rest of the branches the longer the sick branch is in your tank. Good news is that the brown jelly (for my case) never spread to other sps or lps.

Sometimes you may see still your hammers having brown jelly problem for no obvious reasons, and all parameters are still ok. I cut loses by removing the infected branches fast.

[straydum]

i would want to cut but its not a branching hammer. so i need a dremel tool or something which i don't. would you guys recommend chiseling? the infection has spread (though slower then expected) to about 15% of the colony. previously it was around 7-10%.

did another iodine rinse this time more iodine and for 7 minutes (previously was 5). i'm quite lost from here cause i read somewhere which said iodine dips shouldn't be done any longer than 7 minutes but there are sites which said 15 minutes.

[iskay]

i would want to cut but its not a branching hammer. so i need a dremel tool or something which i don't. would you guys recommend chiseling? the infection has spread (though slower then expected) to about 15% of the colony. previously it was around 7-10%.

did another iodine rinse this time more iodine and for 7 minutes (previously was 5). i'm quite lost from here cause i read somewhere which said iodine dips shouldn't be done any longer than 7 minutes but there are sites which said 15 minutes.

In desperate times, need to try anything. I chiseled a bubble (also non-branching) before that had one side very dead. 2 or 3 mouths remain after the chiseling. 2 mouths recovered. 1 mouth still trying to hang-on until now.

[straydum]

chiseled of 40% the other day cause the whole area went wrong. i'm still a little unsure about the little part near the chiseled area. its been 2 days now and it doesn't seem infected, yet it doesn't seem totally healthy. fingers crossed

[iskay]

For first few days after the "surgery", I siphon the injured parts to suck out any dead tissue. I did this until there's no more tissue being sucked away.

I got the bubble from a reefer converting to FOWLR

[boxerz]

brown stuff can be 2 things. either brown jelly, or expelling waste/zooxanthaelle. the 2nd is harmless. first one is very hard to treat.

for all euphyllids, they are not terrible difficult to care for. as long as u follow this u should be fine

- moderate wave.

- ABSOLUTELY NO strong laminar flow. it will tear the tissue off the skeleton

- if using MH, place at bottom or somewhere shady.

- if using T5, place mid to top.

- occasional feeding is fine. mysis will do. if u wan feed prawn, once every 2 weeks is enuf.

- never over feed ur LPS. they will die.

follow this general guideline and ur euphyllids should thrive. they do appreciate some nitrates. 5-10ppm is fine.

Lemon bro I think you may give a misconception here that T5s are weaker than MH in intensity when they are not. All these light intensities are dependent on the ballast they work on and the fixture (ie, reflectors, tubes/bulbs) that comes with it. A well built T5 fixture can overpower a 250W MH and vice versa ( bad comparison though but just an example).

Many corals can adapt to high lighting (not blasting them with tons of light because there is a difference). Depending on the source of light your LFS is keeping the corals under, the light source you can immediately put your corals purchased in your tank is variable. If you got them from high lighting LFS, it will be quite safe to put them under the same high light. If they are under low lighting, start them off low and then you can slowly increase the light.

[yikai]

Lemon bro I think you may give a misconception here that T5s are weaker than MH in intensity when they are not. All these light intensities are dependent on the ballast they work on and the fixture (ie, reflectors, tubes/bulbs) that comes with it. A well built T5 fixture can overpower a 250W MH and vice versa ( bad comparison though but just an example).

Many corals can adapt to high lighting (not blasting them with tons of light because there is a difference). Depending on the source of light your LFS is keeping the corals under, the light source you can immediately put your corals purchased in your tank is variable. If you got them from high lighting LFS, it will be quite safe to put them under the same high light. If they are under low lighting, start them off low and then you can slowly increase the light.

yes thanks for pointing that out. my mistake.

thanks bro