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60W / 100W LED lighting


acidjc
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my first phototype LED lighting for marine.

After so long of thinking and thinking to build a LED, finally I got some spare time during the end of last year. Since I work in the company that invlove in LED lighting, therefore I manage to convince my boss to let me "R&D" a LED lighting for marine. Tell him that if my design sucessful, the company will have 1 more product to sell.. :P anyhow, this is just a phototype. It still a way long to finalise the product for market and sell. *fingers crossed*

OK, here my basic specification

using 10x 10W LEDs, (5x cold white and 5x royal blue)

designed to have 2 mode of operation (control by switches) :

Mode 1 : 60W (4x RB and 2x CW)

Mode 2 : 100W (6x RB and 4x CW)

Current consumption @ 24VDC :

Mode 1 (60W) : 2.5A

Mode 2 (40W) : 3.4A

Lux Level @ 30cm :

Mode 1 (60W) : approx 1200Lux

Mode 2 (40W) : approx 1900Lux

Test run for 7hr per day at room temperature and with the 2 DC fans, the heat sink is just abit warm at the end of the operation.

any guru can advise whether with the above power and lux level, it is good enough for SPS keeping?

some photos for your comment and feedback

The photo taken look more blueish taken from my iphone, but actual viewing it look ok to me.

Closeup view of the phototype LED lighting

post-10862-0-76761100-1294625018_thumb.j

post-10862-0-13816600-1294625023_thumb.j

Mode 1 : 60W ( 4 x RB and 2 x CW)

post-10862-0-62392100-1294625021_thumb.j

post-10862-0-19452100-1294625020_thumb.j

Mode 2 : 100W ( 6 x RB and 4 x CW)

post-10862-0-10736900-1294625017_thumb.j

post-10862-0-68088500-1294626029_thumb.j

Current Tank(s) :

2 x 1 x 1 mixed reef tank

What in my mind now (future tanks)

4 x 2.5 x 1.5 low profile coral tank

3 x 2.5 x 1.5 low profile reef tank

Decommissioned Tanks :

2 ft seahorse tank back in the 1990s'

2.5 ft cube mixed reef tank in 2007 to 2008

JBJ 28g Tank . Maxspect G1 110W + 12W DIY LED . Tunze 9002 Skimmer . Vortech MP10w ES . SPS only Tank . Picasso Clown Fish (2009 to 2011)

2 x 1 x 1 puffer-fishes, box-fishes & Frog-fish tank (2015)

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Bro,

If you look at the rock you will find you have many hot spot.

This is due to the use of high watt LED.

A single 10 watt led has a very high intensity spot around the centre

of the light spot.

You can soften such spot by moving the led further from the tank .

Another method is to use 3 pieces of 3 watt leds rather then one piece of

10 watt led.

This is my observation.

Cheers and keep up the good work

6.5 * 2 * 2 + 3.75 * 1.5 *1.5,(Decomn on 14/9/08)
4*2*2 + 2.5*1.25*1.25 (Decomn on 1/8/09)
5*2*2 (Fully LED light system, 140 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)
2.5*2*2(Fully LED Light System,96 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)

5*2.5*2(LED only)

Eheim return 1 * pump

1 HP Daikin compressor with cooling coil
2 Jebao OW40, 1 ecotech MP40,
1X6085 Tunze wm,

1 CURVE 7 Skimmer

  1 DIY 80 led control by Bluefish mini 

1 radion XR30W G2, 2 Radion XR15G3

Sump area lite by 5 ft T5 , 6 * SSC 3 watt red LED for refugium

1 Full spectrum E27 led light

1 CR control by bubble count

Start No Water Change since 1st Dec 2016

Add new 2.5x2x 1.5 ft 

 nLekOfpYts.jpg
[/quote]


 

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Nice job !

Not sure what your configuration is but can consider using PWM to reduce the light intensity (google CAT4101 - supports up to 25V, 1A per channel). The spot effect would be lesser but might not be able to reach the bottom of a 2ft height tank. bro Sherman's recommendation to increase the distance between the LED and tank would probably work better.

Personally, I don't quite like using one big chunk of heatsink, I'm currently running bridgelux LEDs on a CPU heatsink w/fan, keeps the temperature down petty well but cost is a issue. Will be trying out some GPU heatsink w/fans to see how the result is like.

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Bro,

If you look at the rock you will find you have many hot spot.

This is due to the use of high watt LED.

A single 10 watt led has a very high intensity spot around the centre

of the light spot.

You can soften such spot by moving the led further from the tank .

Another method is to use 3 pieces of 3 watt leds rather then one piece of

10 watt led.

This is my observation.

Cheers and keep up the good work

Thank bro, I have notice that too, as my mushroom is not opening wide. think must be due to the high intensity of the light. I have shifted the light higher by about another 10cm. Will take note and observe the effect for the next weeks.

I am planning to built another set of LED light using 3W LEDs. now saving money for next project.

Nice job !

Not sure what your configuration is but can consider using PWM to reduce the light intensity (google CAT4101 - supports up to 25V, 1A per channel). The spot effect would be lesser but might not be able to reach the bottom of a 2ft height tank. bro Sherman's recommendation to increase the distance between the LED and tank would probably work better.

Personally, I don't quite like using one big chunk of heatsink, I'm currently running bridgelux LEDs on a CPU heatsink w/fan, keeps the temperature down petty well but cost is a issue. Will be trying out some GPU heatsink w/fans to see how the result is like.

sound great and idea for my next LED project, I have saw many of these CPU or GPU heatsink and fans in SL.

Thanks for all your comment and feedback, I will keep improving.

Current Tank(s) :

2 x 1 x 1 mixed reef tank

What in my mind now (future tanks)

4 x 2.5 x 1.5 low profile coral tank

3 x 2.5 x 1.5 low profile reef tank

Decommissioned Tanks :

2 ft seahorse tank back in the 1990s'

2.5 ft cube mixed reef tank in 2007 to 2008

JBJ 28g Tank . Maxspect G1 110W + 12W DIY LED . Tunze 9002 Skimmer . Vortech MP10w ES . SPS only Tank . Picasso Clown Fish (2009 to 2011)

2 x 1 x 1 puffer-fishes, box-fishes & Frog-fish tank (2015)

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Bro Siang,

Its high time to go LED. The price has actually drop almost 50% from last year.

That is for most of the well establish brand like Cree, SSC, etc.

But also beware of counterfeit.There are many around.

6.5 * 2 * 2 + 3.75 * 1.5 *1.5,(Decomn on 14/9/08)
4*2*2 + 2.5*1.25*1.25 (Decomn on 1/8/09)
5*2*2 (Fully LED light system, 140 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)
2.5*2*2(Fully LED Light System,96 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)

5*2.5*2(LED only)

Eheim return 1 * pump

1 HP Daikin compressor with cooling coil
2 Jebao OW40, 1 ecotech MP40,
1X6085 Tunze wm,

1 CURVE 7 Skimmer

  1 DIY 80 led control by Bluefish mini 

1 radion XR30W G2, 2 Radion XR15G3

Sump area lite by 5 ft T5 , 6 * SSC 3 watt red LED for refugium

1 Full spectrum E27 led light

1 CR control by bubble count

Start No Water Change since 1st Dec 2016

Add new 2.5x2x 1.5 ft 

 nLekOfpYts.jpg
[/quote]


 

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i would love to check out your LED one day...coz i'm thinking of doing one for my 4ft to cut electricity bill and to make my tank brighter...

Hi bro,

Diy is not cheaper compare to off the shelf LED lighting.. :( !

Nowsaday...there are many good LED lighting in the market and price are pretty reasonable...why not just get one and try :lol: ?

post-1182-049500100201281969137_thumb.gi

Knowing is not enough; we must apply. Willing is not enough; we must do. - Goethe

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true true, the cost for builting my LED is more than S$200+++, and hence if you can, just get those recommended brand off the shelf, it proven and got warranty. DIY only if you are ready interested in hardware, electronic and stuff like that

Current Tank(s) :

2 x 1 x 1 mixed reef tank

What in my mind now (future tanks)

4 x 2.5 x 1.5 low profile coral tank

3 x 2.5 x 1.5 low profile reef tank

Decommissioned Tanks :

2 ft seahorse tank back in the 1990s'

2.5 ft cube mixed reef tank in 2007 to 2008

JBJ 28g Tank . Maxspect G1 110W + 12W DIY LED . Tunze 9002 Skimmer . Vortech MP10w ES . SPS only Tank . Picasso Clown Fish (2009 to 2011)

2 x 1 x 1 puffer-fishes, box-fishes & Frog-fish tank (2015)

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