pospeh

Geez, Joe, how did you come to that brilliant conclusion?! Anytime you downgrade from a fully loaded 5 footer to a 2-3 footer, you are going to have to give up your acros.

hmm AT, are you sure you are using rowaphos? It is just black, with no brown stuff with contraphos. And you are not supposed to rinse rowaphos anyways.

oh, that is really good.

You might want to try testing using another brand of test kit. dKh of 19 sounds too high to be a valid result..

Shiraz, that is not bryopsis in your photo. Looks like garden variety hair algae. Bryposis is feathery. And it is very tough to get rid of through regular means.

I dont want to curse you, but I am really surprised that it is still alive after 12 hours!!

Meq/l is a measure of alkalinity, milliequivalents per liter. 1 meq/l is about 2.9 dKh, which is another way of expressing alkalinity.

Well, it is the best short-term and fastest solution. You need something that works long-term without breaking your back and your wallet.

This is a toughie. I have a small patch too, but luckily it is not spreading uncontrollabley. It actually gives a nice tint of green to my tank. My advice is get down and dirty and pull it out strand by strand, and for the really tough spots, use a toothbrush to get the bugger out.

It works either way for me. Dont sweat over it.

The probability of macroalgae going asexual and wiping out a whole tank is very low, unless you don't pay attention to your tank for several days. The most it will likely do is to bring your ammonia levels up some when it dies.

I am a Mac user too. Go Panther!!

Yeah, he can be one of those specimens on that Bodyworld exhibit in Suntec World, and the caption would be "this is what happens when you do too much cosmetic surgery.".

AB has 20K bulbs. In 250 or 150 watts and DE too.

Radium is a brand of bulb that is typically described as a 20K blue because of its blue output. Ushio is another brand name. The "blue" designation is used by the manufacturer to distinguish it from its 10K cousin. The Ushio blues are also rated 20K.

I guess i wont tell you how many fishes i killed in my lifetime.

The most expensive fish I saw is a $1000 conspicuous angel. The boyei angel is supposed to be more expensive, but I have yet to see it in person. Anyone know what is the most expensive that is commercially sold?

If you are into DE bulbs, the choices are really limited if you want 20Ks. The 150W versions doesn't put out enough light if you want to keep sps. The two main choices are the Radium and the Ushio blues. For 250W, the only realistic choice is the AB, but that is a very expensive bulb. I think around $300. If you want 10Ks, the AB and the Ushio are very good bulbs and are reasonably priced.

Really sorry to hear that. I feel that I know your tank so well from all the postings you made. You put in alot of effort into the tank to make it one of the bests ones here. Get plenty of carbon to suck out all the toxics.

The intensity of 400W SE is more than 250W DE. But the thing is, just because there is more intensity does not necessarily mean that more "light" is getting into your tank. The light output is spread around a 360 degree circle, and you need a good reflector to direct the light going upwards DOWNWARDS to your tank. So the differance between a good reflector and no reflector at all can mean a 100% differance in the amount of light getting into the tank. A DE bulb is much more compact compared to a SE bulb, so it is easier to build reflectors that maximize the amount of light directed into the tank. Furthermore, DE bulbs are almost always identical in that the center of the plasma chamber is always in the same location vis-a-vis the DE holders. So the reflector designer know exactly where to place the reflector to maximize the amount of light getting into the tank. This is the reason why you see branded commercial DE pendants, but hardly any branded commercial SE pendants. With the SE bulbs, the center of the plasma reaction chamber is located differently in different brands of bulbs. Hence, SE users have to make do with building their own pendants, and getting their own reflectors, and trying to be as effiecient as possible in reflecting the light into the tank. There was an article in Advanced Aqualist by Richard Harker that compared the light getting into the tank as between factory-build commerical DE pendants vs. SE reflectors (i.e, Spiderlights). Generally, he found that DE reflectors directed more light into the tank such that a 250W DE bulb is roughly equivalent to a 400W SE bulb. There a some very good SE reflectors that reflects as well as the DE reflectors, but I dont believe they are available here in Singapore. So the difference is really the DE reflector, not the bulbs themselves. BTW, I use the AB DE pendant set, and so far had no problems after 4+ years of use.

Hey I know how you feel AT. I experienced it for 20 years. You think the US is all enlightened with respect to racial issues, but they are really not. The Asians are the last safe bastion they can pick on now that the blacks are off limits. Disclaimer. This attitude is not true for the vast majority of americans, but it is the few bigots that ruins everything.

wow, this is indeed a surprise.

My sump is like that too. But you cant really break them off and expect them to live. Their tubes are built into the glass wall.

you need to wait about 6 months for coralline to really kick in. Monitor your alk levels to around 8 dkh. That will help. Also make sure there are no algae or deitrus on your rocks. They impede the growth or coralline.

This is really funny.