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R0B

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Everything posted by R0B

  1. FOWLR tanks may not need as much lighting horsepower as that of a full blown reef tank. However, you still want enough to grow macroalgae in the form of coralline algae, whose growth will be very dependent on the light sources used. You won't need much power, 75 PAR should suffice. As such some T5 lights would suffice. Depending on depth of rockscape I would recommend a four tube set up well spaced (2x2) mounted at 10 to 12 inches off the water. A mix of ATI blue plus and Coral Plus bulbs should give a good spectrum and aesthetic, as well as bringing out the colours of the fish. Equivalent
  2. Both RODI and distilled water are fine. Most long term reefers go with RODI as it removes all the impurities in the water from chemicals, to the heavy metals (even the odd radioactive isotope). The reason RODI is preferred is due to long term cost associated with other clean water sources. (If your tank is small then it may be ok to just get distilled). I would NOT go with tap water in a reef tank, even with the chemical agents used to treat the water it holds on to too many impurities which will build up in your system. Hope that helps. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  3. If you don't have any live stock in the tank then you can lower the salinity to around 1.15 - 1.18 and increase the temperature slightly to 28. Adding an air stone may also help (assuming you are not running your skimmer or wavemakers) as bacteria consume oxygen. These things will aid bacterial growth. Fyi, 4 is absolutely a good number at this stage. You don't want to go down to zero for neither Nitrate nor Phosphate. It's all about stability. Soon you will be ready for a starter fish. So think about your choices ahead of you. Good luck but sounds like you are in a good position. Se
  4. Love the aquascape. Haha. Minimalist is the way to go! Just a hint for cycling. Bacteria use energy creating a membrane to fight off saline water. Hence if you lower the salinity to say 1.15 or 1.18 then the bacteria will replicate faster as they dont need to expend energy just trying to survive. Also as they reproduce the oxygen levels in the tank will reduce, so make sure the water is moving around a little to allow for gas exchange. Looking good. Can't wait to see the tank progress. Good luck. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  5. agree with my fellow refer, what are your aims? Just to help you, here is some info on lights... The strength of light is measured in PAR, and the different colours refers to the lights 'SPECTRUM' (also look for high PUR in this regard). as such we tend to look at lights for our reef tanks in those terms, rather then just Watts. But there obviously is some correlation. A very rough rule of thumb would be to have 4 to 8 watts of light per gallon, but that is old school measure and not always representative. Here is a good resource that discussed PAR values for corals... Also this chann
  6. I have to agree with my fellow reefers. Back in the day I used exactly the same racking system as you for a 200L tank. I knew it wasn't perfect but it was all I had. How I made it work was I got some additional supports for each of the corners. This took the form of four 2x3inch lengths of wood under each corner basically taking the weight. It worked fine.. until after a year when I noticed that the structure was starting to twist and the metal frame was bent. The tank wasn't level anymore and i reckon it would have given up anytime soon. If you have more tanks I think would be worse situati
  7. What an interesting new product! That should work well given they have combined with an ATO. Looks like a great choice. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  8. Well you gotta be happy with that. Looks great! Orphek recommend a high mounting height for blanket coverage, so is looking rel good. But final height should really be set by your corals and their needs. Note 'SubzeroLT' has a PAR monitoring service so you can touch base with him once you have your aquascape all sorted. Keep up with the updates! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  9. Congrats on thinking about an AWC it would imho certainly improve the quality of your tank, however there are a few things to consider with both options You said about relying on sensors, well the Autoaqua smart AWC has an additional timer safety feature so it won't overrun hence not reliant on sensors alone. The good point about the use of float sensors as the primary control is that they allows the system to replace exactly what it pulls out irrespective of what pumps you use for either input or output, so there is no need to calibrate pumps to match volumes. (I believe autoaqua also offer
  10. There are certain strains of bacteria that don't enter our systems unless we purposefully place them there. So adding a spectrum of bacteria allows for that population to occur. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  11. I guess you have a fair few different options. So you may want to think about usage first. Is it for algea control or for disease control? If for algea, operating it as a closed loop with the main display is the best option. For disease it is better to run at slower flow rates. Regarding mounting. Firstly one option is to mount it to the roof above the sump (assuming you have adequate surface and depth of surface - dont want to drill into tank!). This keeps it out of the way! Second option is to have it mounted on a side or back wall . With both of these options make sure the way you ac
  12. As with most reef related pollutants the "solution is dilution" with a good okd fashioned water change. Dosing Citric acid will deplete alkalinity, and impact calcium so you will need to monitor and then slowly add a little extra alk in each water change (just a little!). Also you have just accidentally added a carbon source so depending on how much was added you may want to watch for bacteria blooms (which will later impact oxygen levels). But from the sounds of it, there was onoy a small amount added so most likely you will see no impact at all. Good luck. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobi
  13. There are many types of hermit crabs and most are reef safe (no guarantees). Paguritta tend to be filter feeding crabs so you should be okay. Tidal gardens did a video on Paguritta crabs... For crab info check out https://reefguide.org/index25.html#Right-Handed_Hermits to confirm the identify you new tank mate. Then use which has more info https://www.reeflex.net/kategorie/51.html#paguritta Looks like an added benefit from what I can see. Let me know if you interested in letting one go, as would be keen to increase the bio-diversty in my tank haha. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mo
  14. Brightwell neo nitro uses a mix of both potassium nitrate and sodium nitrate. You could use Laudwolf sodium nitrate 99.6% (which is food grade from nine life.sg). To be honest I don't find a real cost saving vs. commercial products for nitrate. Plus you need to be careful of the dose vs. increases in salinity. Here is a good calculator to help you. http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/calculator.htm Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  15. (assumung you were talking about fish QT). A Fishes motabolism increases with temperature so their resting heart rate will go up as water tempreture increases. Further as tempreature goes up the amount of dissolved oxygen decreases. Certain medications will further deplete the oxygen levels. If a fish has some parasite or infection of the gills it is going to struggle to breathe already, add in the increase in tempreture and well it could be all a little too much. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  16. Yes that's the idea. Just keep a spare in the Main Display sump. Just take a small amount. Meds... the idea is to prevent any disease entering the main display tank. We don't know what fish has (internally, in their gills or externally) so we treat as a preventative measure. This way your main display will be safe (well more safe) from a potential outbreak. It's the difference between Management and Cure. The danger is if you wait to treat when you see symptoms, it could very well be that the other fish will have it too. Worst case they die and kill all your coral in the process. Best ca
  17. 1. You can take down your QT system once fish have gone through the treatment. Clean and throughly dry equipment throw away sponges. When time to start up again can take water from Main Display and if you keep a bag of media in your main display sump you can use this to restart your quarantine tank (so no mini cycle occurs). Suggest you discard the bio media afterwards. (So I use the cheap stuff) 2. Keeping chilled QT is a difficult without it's own chiller. Try to keep tank cool as possible 28 is max (fans, frozen bottles of rodi whatever you can). Issue is fishes metabolism is higher as te
  18. No, not at a level where the copper is useful. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  19. Ok no point suggesting as Orphek v4 would be an amazing set up haha. That said... The benefit of the Orphek is the blanket of light it provides; another way to achieve this is with something like the Aquaticlife T5 hybrid. I have this with three radion g4 xr15's and four T5's (2 blue plus, 1 actinic and 1 coral plus). I believe kessil is the go to combination here vs radion. With the advances in LEDs that you can now replace the T5 with either Reef Brites (Note in recent weeks BRSTV suggest an all reefbrite system) or Orphek OR3 blue plus. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  20. Nice. Wiring is a pain and even if you tidy, once you have to remove anything you will only have to untangle it once more. Best hide it away hahaha. But nice space. Is that a kill switch? (Orange lights). How does that work? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  21. Most likely either the RO membrane needs replacement (or hasn't been installed correctly - it needs to be pushed into the housing fairly strongly) or there is an issue with the DI resin. What you can do is move the TDS probe and place it just after the RO membrane to check what is coming out. It should be low single digits. If it's any higher then 4 or 5 you probably need a new membrane. If its low digits then it most likely the DI. I have the exact same machine. It is truly a great machine as it handles all the auto flushing etc. I consistently get 0tds out of it. Sent from Singapo
  22. There are many ways to configure sumps and it looks like a nice space you have. You could consider the following by section 1) drainage, 2) mechanical filtration, 3) skimmer, 4) bio blocks along with reactors and return. Here are some more thoughts... First section this is where you would drain the water. Three pipes coming from the tank (?). Second section has glass brackets and is designed for overflow into the section so this is designed for mechanical filtration. Here you could get some glass or acrylic cut with holes for filter socks and place on lower shelf. Similarily Upper shelf use
  23. My understanding is that for some reagents you can use for both fresh and saltwater however the colour cards you use to read the results will be different (API conversions for example https://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Downloads.html). However, the JBL ProScan is not designed for use with saltwater. The scales of measurement apply only to freshwater Hence suggest you pick up saltwater test kits. If cost is an issue just get Nitrate, as this is all you basically need for cycle. Salifert is 'goto' brand for most people as is fairly reliable. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  24. Yes it will (but it could be marginal depending on the total water volume of the tank). As oxygen permeates the water through the surface what you are actually doing with an air stone is agitating the surface and creating more surface area via the bubbles, you are not 'injecting' air per se. A skimmer does this but the surface area it creates is an order of magnitude bigger then an air stone. That said any agitation is better then none! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  25. All things in your reef tank react with oxygen. Fish, invertebrates, areobic bacteria all consume oxygen and expel co2. Zooxanthellae create oxygen, and corals use this to help them remove waste. Whilst dissolved organics need oxygen to enable them to break down. As such it's no surprise that Coral reef health (and colouration) has been shown to be heavily linked to the level of dissolved oxygen (DO). Despite it being at the centre of life within your tank, it is one of the least known and certainly least tested parameters in the reef aquaria. So I thought I would take some time to try an
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