fongster

sorry dun know how to get live mysis

white shrimp? do you mean those small shrimp ? mysis shrimp? live or frozen ? frozen can get from nearly any pet store... but best deal is still at petmart

those sunon is not bad but must be wary of the salt spray, the electrical connection is very "raw" and not insulated, my fan was starting to give me and my water electrical shocks, sometimes when i put my hand into the water i would get a shock ! and the sound is also very irritating, a constant loud "wrrrr" , the blots and nuts also get rusted rather quickly, so currently i am using the ocean free 2 in 1 .. at least i am protected from shocks... electrical consumption wise those cpu type fans are much more efficient, the sunon uses like 30w thereabout, the cpu fans i think less, if can DIY then best

yes you need to add salt into the water you intend to change you would also need a hydrometer or a refractometer to test the salinity of the water you are changing. you need to know some things before changing water 1. volume of your tank, so you can ascertain how many % you are taking out and putting in. for a weekly change 5%-10% is fine. If bi-weekly then 15% roundabouts 2. salinity or specific gravity of the tank, so you do not fluctuate the water too much, an SG of 1.021-1.025 is fine. 3. when mixing the new salt into the water, must premix the solution outside of the tank. Add salt into water, not water into salt; meaning you first fill a bucket or container with water than add salt, not put salt at the bottom of the container and pour water in, this is rather important !! 4. at times when you mix the new salt solution you will see some deposits that cannot be dissolved, best is if you can remove those before adding the water into your tank. 5. so you remove the amount of water to change then add pre-mixed salt solution into your tank. all the best !!

try to post in the pasar malam ? as WTB

can try calling CF sometimes they bring in small octopus, opposite the mainwalk way to the shark tank, sometimes there are goodies there

ever thought of setting a trap? 1. you can put some food, like mkt prawn inside the tank and camp a while to catch it, armed with thongs and a fork to spear it or something. 2. you can make a pest trap, something along the lines of a fish trap, cut a 500ml bottle about 3/4 to the top, then invert the top, then put bait inside to attract the shrimp, either you can camp and wait for the shrimp to enter the bottle that may take some time, and you may miss it if you are not absolutely vigilant. 3. another trap---> take those containers for "ta pao" ? those plastic kinds, cut an "x" along the sand line facing the fellas 'home' or 'known hideout' and push the pieces in, you will see a 4 different plastic triangles facing in, it is easier to go in than to come out, on the way out the shrimp will meet with sharp ends that constrict when it tries to force its way out, make sure the opening is not too big, the critters are amazingly agile, you may need to reconstruct if it gets out, and make appropriate adjustments; smaller entrance -- ofcourse you must add bait, those that "smell" a bit is best, haha then wake up the next morning to catch a "rat"

so what do you think to be the acceptable parameters for Ca? it should be be within 400-450 so i think that fits the bill, nothing wrong with your salt

when i mean water change my advice is only add into your tank that which is within the acceptable parameters, meaning if your newly mixed salt is high in Ca then dont add it in. 1. it could be that your salt is abnormally high in Ca, coralife is not well know for its QC; the Mg is most of the time screwed up, either too high or low ---> you could consider changing salt, coralife is one of the cheapest salt in the mkt, but in the same way you sort of "pay" for it. 2. you can lower the sg, however dont forget that not only are you removing part of the Ca, you are also removing other elements in the salt mix; most importantly the things that you cant test. 3.you can let nature take its course and consume the calcium, however i do not think it is a long term solution, 600ppm Ca would indicate an ionic imbalance and thus a possible deficiency in other areas. Besides the saturation pt of Ca should be around 500ppm so you might have calcification in areas that might not be nice; pumps on the glass along the waterline, so on. you do not need to dose trace elements, seeing that you only have a single bubble, and you were all also making frequent water changes (i presume). you have Mg and Kh test kits? when dealing with Ca problems, more often than not you will find Mg off parameter.

since you test your water so, why not also test the salt mixture that you are adding into your tank. Add something within the acceptable parameters of ca (400-450ppm) mg (1200-1350ppm)and kh(9-11 dkh), in that way, every time you do a water change, no matter what your parameters are you know that you are doing good for your tank. think about it, i think it makes sense... what kind of measure are you using to ascertain the salinity of your water ? hydrometer? best if you use a refractometer, maybe your salinity is on the high side thus the high reading. salinity should be between 1.021-1.025 keep on trying and one day you will do it right !!

harlequin: some nice chilli blastos, and bi-colour prata not bad....

i dont remember seeing this big sizes in any lfs, maybe it is in the storeroom or something, haha

the 3rd liquid in the calcium test kit from salifert should be clear, confirm... better go back and change if possible... first time i heard of a blue colour

the most economical and efficient way to boost low calcium and magnesium levels is to do a water change with salt containing the proper parameters. it would help if you can test your mg levels, the mg will enable the calcium to stay in a higher concentration in the water, meaning to say if your mg is v low your calcium will also be proportionately as low. yah for reef tank with calcifying corals not only do you need to watch your calcium levels you would need to watch your alkalinity (measured by carbonate hardness) also; reef builder by seachem is a good alkalinity buffer. maybe you can share with us what is the size of your tank what corals you are keeping coraline algae growth ? how old is your test kit, there should be an expiry date on the box, if not then it is probably very old already, and should be replaced. i guess you should be aiming at around 380-450 ? tropic marine calcium no doubt is good, but i would say that jireh reef max is more value for money and the dissolvability is very good, tropic marine at times will cloud the water, maybe you can consider.

i read somewhere that you should not have more than 10% of water inside the tank when you shift, esp a tank of your size, maybe just the water alone is about 300-400 kg, not counting other things, so i think it would be better to remove the water esp when you shift..

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i have a true percula that used to hang near the top right side of the tank and not swim about much, however when i introduced another smaller true percula, he/she decided to start to swim around and into my hammer, maybe this may help, they may not decide to host until they are thinking about reproducing anyway not all anemone is suitable for them, in the wild, they host the magnifica or something like that, can be a few metres across, so not suitable for our tanks..

saf jerry can only 18 litres iwarna water is cheap, $2 for a big container, about 35 litres, they have those big blue containers, put $4 deposit if you buy per individual packet, it is $1 for 10 litres since you go to lck area then can also check out lck110, the water there is cheap and uv filtered. should be $3-4 for one container about 20l

quite likely that there wont be beneficial bacteria, hypo is just a temporary measure, so it is done with an empty tank. make sure you put in a air stone, and check your ammonia frequently, and have spare water ready for changes, i lost quite a few fishes the hard way.

i think petmart is the place to go for additives and equipment needs. staff is rather friendly and prices are very reasonable !!

thanks

no cannot have live rocks in hypo they will die off but wont cause the fishes to die off, unless certain types of fish like sharks. if u administer hypo make sure that the salinity is accurate via a refractometer, if not it may not cause the ich parasite to burst prematurely, if the salinity is still too high or on the other hand cause extra stress to your fish if the salinity is too low.

is it a john parris cue ?