Elune

Isn't the sole purpose of the "dictionary" software meant to replace OBSOLETE method of smsing thru normal phone keypad (e.g. press #2 thrice to get a C)? Just learn to accustom urself to the dictionary. u got such a good phone but u are not utilising its technology to the maximum (either thru dictionary sms-ing / poke the screen with stylus-pen)?

Crime rate at their place increasing? bro, u might wanna share which place so that we can caution our loved ones also. Pepper spray is not illegal, but its prohibited in Singapore (thats why you can never find on sale here). But if used by a women for self-defense, there could be an exception ruling for its usage, but either way, the user will still be charged for possession of prohibited items. What i can say for pepper-spray is that it is still a "close-proximity" self-defense weapon/gadget. Unless ur loved ones glued this gadget to their hands so they can use it under the least response time possible, if not, by the time an assault took place and ended, I dun think they have enuf time to take it out from their handbags to use it on the assailant. The robber would have long ran off (probably with the entire handbag, along with the peppey spray). (worse, the robber got a peppery-spray to use for his/her next assault). well, maybe taking the gadget out in advance might help though. A whistle seems to be the best. =) blow as loud as u can...

Stole tis picture from Parking Idiots.com (consider this as giving credit)

ROFL dude, another forum online? majority of the people here... have account there as well~!!! so even though its 2 different forum, its still ONE COMMUNITY... u can find the same people here and there, no difference! U can still go ahead and ask for foc things, i believe there are still some reefers around who are willing to give u something... Cheers! keep this thread up at the top! (at least for tonite...)

eh? "small2" = a reefer's name? this is a closed bidding? then no transparency le wor....

Wow, dersuz, if u have an identical sun coral colony like that, then selling off at $20 is such a waste. nice corals must sell high price one. just my 2-cents la~

eh? There are 2 different guys with the same avatar ? ahboytin >> Joined 11 August 06 ah boy-213 >> Joined 31 August 06 So ahboytin comes first.... and ah boy-213 copy his avatar? Or its the other way round? Anyways, ah boy-213 : your Aquabee pump got include delivery? To which area ah? I got friend interested, dunno if you can deliver there anot.

........ enlighten me.... the phone can start up but screen white white cannot see anything else.... Q1) respectfully asking, may I know its potential use? Q2) Do u mean buy then send for repair myself? Q3) Or is there any bro here open hp shop, kind enuf to explain if buy-in such phone got re-sell value? If its repairable, i may be interested... how much u asking for this phone?

Woo, u guys... i admire alot of you guys... no matter how I read and re-read, I can't make sense of what he is trying to say. Looks like English to me... But from what I can guess, ah-boy wants to date ALL of us out to "talk" ? How about we ask you to leave your contact number, house address, name, and post a photograph of you right here in this thread? I wanna know people like you. =)

Just 2 months into restarting the tank and it already so populated? Add live stocks slowly. I dun think a small Jebo skimmer is sufficient for your tank. Got to get a better one.

Dear vtec: you might wanna take a look at this chart first : 1) The disappearance of the white spots could be a sign of recovery, but it could also meant that the ich parasite has gone into the next stage of their life cycle - Tomonts stage - where they encyst onto the substrates (ur liverocks and sand! Thats why we told you to remove the Liverocks and sand). Depending on the temperature, within the next 3-28 days, these tomonts encystments could break and hundreds of tomites will be released back into the water... seeking for a fish to host! And re-infect the fish again... Fret not... just continue to monitor the fish~ and do regular water change, and you will be breaking up the life cycle of the parasite. To be very very confirm, sure, guarantee, chop stamp, assure, that the parasites are no more, keep the fish in the QT over at least 2 cycles of the parasites' life cycle (thats max of 28days X 2) --- roughly 2 months. Ya, its a long wait. But its the theory lah. This is to safeguard the rest of the livestock in your tank. 2) Erm... 1 and a half feet Q-tank converting into marine tank? Consider this after you cured ur fish first lor~ Good luck~ hope Dory pulls thru~ remember to keep it feeding.

Could be a case of Amyloodinium ocellatum - also known Marine Velvet. I said "could be"... dun blame me if its not. post us a picture for better diagnosis? Do a water change as well, then reading up on this : Marine Velvet

In the case of treatment with Formalin above, you might wanna read the below extract first : Formalin can be administered one of two ways; either in short dips with saltwater or used continually in a hospital tank. The dosage for the continuous use is 1 ml of the 37% stock solution for every 25 gallons of quarantine tank water (Bassleer, 1996). I prefer the formalin dip to continuous use because formalin is a fairly toxic compound. Also, with no commercially available test kits to monitor the concentration, it would be difficult to dose an entire tank and account for evaporation, absorption, etc. To prepare the dip, I take 5 gallons of tank water and add to it 3.75 ml of 37% formalin. I also aerate the water vigorously to ensure there is maximum dissolved oxygen. The dip should last 30 to 60 minutes. As when using any medication, it is best to monitor the fish's reaction and be prepared to act if it appears in distress. When the dip is complete, net the fish, place it back into the hospital tank, and discard the dip water. This protocol should be repeated every other day for two weeks. I would like to remind readers of a few precautions regarding the use of formalin. First, it is a carcinogen. Formalin is an aqueous solution of carcinogenic formaldehyde gas, so gloves should be worn and the area should be well ventilated when using it. Secondly, formalin should not be used if fish have open sores, wounds, or lesions. It is likely to cause tissue damage to these open wounds. And lastly, formalin can rob the water of dissolved oxygen. That is why proper aeration is so crucial. For that reason, do not use formalin if the water temperature is 82*F or higher (Noga, 2000 and Michael, 2002).

( =__= ") hmmm... good question, i have no answer to this... but i have a sure-work solution to this worry of yours ---- just remove the sand and the rocks~ like wat was posted above, keep the QT free from liverocks and sand.

Below is an extract from an internet source, i forgot where, but i think the author is Steven Pro: I have found the best quarantine/hospital tanks to be bare bottomed (no crushed coral or sand) and decorated with inert, nonporous, and "easy-to-clean-and-sanitize" items. Short sections of various diameter PVC pipe work very well for shelter. Live rock does not meet these criteria and therefore I do not recommended its use. It is best to not use any calcareous materials as they will absorb and interfere with some medications. There is also another possible benefit to using all of these smooth, artificial materials in your quarantine tank. In studying outbreaks of Cryptocaryon irritans in Brown Spotted Grouper (Epinephelus tauvina) at an aquaculture station, Rasheed (1989) found that fish kept in concrete vessels routinely fell victim to Ich while those kept at the same facility with identical care, but in fiberglass containers suffered absolutely no infestations. She theorized that the cyst stage of the parasite found the smooth sides of the fiberglass tanks inhospitable. While not proven, it is very interesting and definitely something to keep in mind. At the very least, this type of setup is extremely easy to clean and disinfect if necessary. Copper has several disadvantages in treating Ich. First, at too low a dosage, it is ineffective. Secondly, at too high a dosage, it could kill all your fish. Daily, or better yet twice daily, testing is required to maintain an appropriate and consistent level of copper. Even when within the appropriate ranges, some fish cannot tolerate copper. Some of the fish more sensitive to copper are lionfish, pufferfish, mandarins, blennies, and any other scaleless fish. Copper is also a known immunosuppressive, making fish more susceptible to secondary infections. Invertebrates are extremely sensitive to copper and cannot be housed in a tank undergoing this treatment. Lastly, copper cannot be used in the presence of any calcareous media. Live rock, sand, crushed coral, and dead coral skeletons will all adsorb copper, rendering it useless a treatment.Copper specifically targets the infectious, free-swimming theront stage of this disease, as being buried deep in the skin of the host protects the trophonts; the cyst walls of the tomonts are similarly impervious (Colorni & Burgess, 1997). Knowing this and the life cycle of Cryptocaryon irritans, monitoring and dosing as needed in the evening right before the lights go out is going to be the most effective method. This should ensure optimal treatment concentrations at the most beneficial time. Copper is probably the most popular method of treating Cryptocaryon irritans, but is not my first choice. It is far too labor intensive for me to recommend to the general public, has a large risk of overdose, lowers the fish's resistance to other diseases, and can cause serious damage to the kidney, liver, and beneficial intestinal flora of the fish being treated. Damage to intestinal flora is what many hobbyists point to as a possible contributing cause for Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE), although there is currently no definitive cause of HLLE. Hope this helps!

vtech: i acknowledge that there are 2 schools of thought in terms of dosing medication or not dosing medication. I respect both views. Both have their reasons and both are correct. I just feel that if you decide to conduct hyposalinity, then give it a pure 100% hyposalinity, dun dose this and that. My opinion only. I am not versed in the field of reefing medication, so asking jervismun for advice = ideal. Regarding placing the liverock and sand back into the maintank (from QT), yes, i agree that the possibility of the ich parasites attaching themselves on the substrate and getting introduced into the maintank is high. U might not wanna risk that. If you are worried about something that might happen, it might happen.

Dear vtech, as above mentioned, BT is notorious for being most prone to getting ich. Q: Would i need a Skimmer as well? A: Since you are conducting hyposalinity in this QT, its better to conduct regular water change instead of installing another skimmer. With regular water change, ur chances of removing ich-parasites-in-suspension is higher, so it reduces the amount of ich in the water with every water change. Q: N what other things should i do. A: No. Since it is already in hyposalinity, except for regular water change, no other medication should be added, especially those copper based medication. This is because by dropping the salinity of the water, what happened is that you decrease the effort of the BT to expel salt from its body, allowing the BT to focus its efforts and immune system to fight the ich-parasite. Ich-parasite are also least prone to survive in lower salinity waters (although it still can). Whats even more important is that if you were to dose any copper-based medication, although is the most effective towards ich-parasite, it subjects the BT to higher chances of developing other problems. Keep the QT clear of anything things. In addition, you mentioned you also added some sand and liverocks to the tank. Note that your liverock might absorb the medication (if copper) if u had dosed any, and if you even intend to bring this liverock back into the main tank, I feel it might do harm than good. in addition, keeping the liverock in the QT under hyposalinity condition (1.009), might kill off positive bacterias as well. Bad move in my opinion. Q: Will hyposalinity kill shrimps ? A: Yes it most probably will. Shrimps are invertebrates, and they are the least tolerant towards sudden fluctuations in salinity. I hope that when you dropped ur QT's salinity to 1.009, it was done gradually over abt 2-3 days. If not, if your BT is ok, then good lah. Just remember to gradually increase ur salinity back to the normal OVER 2-3 DAYS when u finished the treatment. Q: in future if i intend to get more tangs, would it be alrite to temporarily house them in this tank? A: That will be most ideal. Since tangs are most susceptible to ich and diseases, quarantining them in a separate tank and conditioning them over a period is always a wise move. Last but not least, DO NOT ever dose anti-ich medication into main tank(esp. if it is copper base), and NEVER EVER conduct hyposalinity in main tank if you have corals and invertebrates. Good luck with the treatment and keep us posted of the results.

In my humble opinion : 1) FOWLR advantage: can keep any fishes, easier to maintain, rescape, equipments can be simple. 2) Reef tank advantage: nicer looking, more natural look. disadvantage: higher maintenance, more $$$ spent on equipment.

Lol, funny, u are searching for one when u can tell us where to find one. Try Clarke Quay. Depends on luck.

So cute! Cook with Sambal Chilli nice anot? Bumpz for you!

usually, when clowns are in a community, the biggest clown fish is the Alpha Female. its a Monarchy rule. when the biggest monarch is take away, the next biggest clown fish changes ###### and becomes the female. the rest remain male... but when singlely kept, we always assume its female, becuz newcomers are always 'henpecked'. but if the newcomer is even bigger, then the former will change ###### back to male.

This is 3gp format (handphone format). Yep, quicktime and real can read. Someone reported to police yet? poor girl.

It is common to find online certain sites offering hotel reservation at a lower rate (internet only rates), even Singapore has its own "hotel-reservation" sites such as www.singaporehotelsreservation.com I'd advise you to give the hotel a call (yep, long distance call to Phuket) to enquire them about this website. If they acknowledge the existence of this website and assures you its safe to do so, then you can go ahead. In addition, when going through the online-booking, pay attention to the "levels" of security encryption the site offers prior to the stage where they finally ask you to enter your credit card number. You will usually be shown a transaction approval page to keep as record/reference, or to print-out. If at anytime you feel unsafe prior to submitting your credit card number, stop immediately. Adopt the mindset of "I'd rather pay more than to lose it", and you will feel much better. Lastly, if you're using CREDIT card, and assuming you were cheated, the hotel was not booked but you are still charged with the amount, you can always reject payment of the particular transaction when your credit card bill arrives. Its up to the credit card issuing bank to investigate the matter.

yep, common symptom. fishes were sleeping. not to worry. (off-topic). Its BH!!! glad you're around!