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SPS: what's possible and impossible


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Hi experts, I understand SPS require stable parameters, high calcium,and high kH

So most hobbyists use automated dosing and reactors. But I also hear those who succeed with none. They change water once every 6-9 weeks, do random manual dosing, and no testing. How come they can succeed too?

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Luck. haha. Some of us just dame lucky, dont do anything also corals can flourish.

But that aside, my guess would be high amount of stability, a very efficient nutrient export system (large skimmer, oversized refugium, plenty of macroalgae etc), a good brand of salt mix, large amount water changes but less frequently, good husbandry, limiting fish, getting smaller sized corals or frags, topping up with essential elements (trition)

Other than that, you're just going against the law of nature....so ....back to luck. haha.

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I Love Stagsss

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Hi experts, I understand SPS require stable parameters, high calcium,and high kH

So most hobbyists use automated dosing and reactors. But I also hear those who succeed with none. They change water once every 6-9 weeks, do random manual dosing, and no testing. How come they can succeed too?

May i know what's your definition of succeed?

What's the percentage of succeed? (Example: 2-3 sps good pe & colouration out of 20-30 different species?)

What type of sps species? The simple more forgiving birdnest/monti and digitata or the harder sps type like kitkat, echinata, deepwater or humillis? The region where the coral is collected or cultured from is also important. Fiji and Oz corals are known to turn brown if water parameters is not optimum.

Lastly I would love to view the tank in person to learn from it. Maybe its really possible.

Cheers,

James

Cheers,

James

Reviving my reef tank :

Crystal glass 53" x 22" x 17" rimless (inclusive of 12"x22"x17" IOS)

Life Reef HVS3-24 with mazzei venturi

ATI Sunpower 8 x 39w T5 (4 x Blue plus, 2 x Aqua blue special, Coral plus)

ZET Light 3 x 3w LEDs moonlight

Arctica 1/3 Hp + 1/4 Hp back up

Vortech mp40w x 3 + Jebao wp25

Eheim 1264 x 3 + water blaster 5000

Vortech back up battery

TLF-150 + Rowaphos

Activated carbon

Kamoer 3 channel + CaCl2 + NaHCo3

150L Refugium with DSB, miracle mud, cheato

2ft T5 x 2 light tubes for refugium

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Hi Bro Chris,

I've come across this article before, and what he does and hes maintenance does make a lot of sense towards keeping sps, so its not really all luck here.

He has a very high nutrient export system, thereby he can afford not to run a skimmer. Mainly he does this through natural means, such as:

1. Good amount of sponge growth ( Sponge growth is like nothing I've had before, with much of the surface on the under/back sides of rocks being nearly covered) .....sponges are one of the best filter feeders of the ocean, thats why its so clean and prestine. (When I was adding calcium more often, there was a lot more coralline algae growing in the aquarium. However, much of it has slowly disappeared over the last year or so. Fortunately, most of the lighted rock is covered by other things, while unlit surfaces have been largely overgrown by sponges. And, I don't have to scrape coralline algae off the glass any more, either. So, in some ways this isn't a problem after all.)

Heres a video clip for better understanding

You can forgo plenty of equipment just by having good amount of sponges within your tank

2. Large amount of xenias (Xenia are also one of the best filter feeders which increases your nutrient export greatly, successfully keeping large amounts of this will make equipments redundant)

  • Several clusters of 2 species of pulsing xenia, Xenia sp.
  • Several clusters of 2 species of non-pulsing xenia, Xenia sp.
  • Several clusters of blue xenia, Cespitularia erecta

3. A large Clam ( One derasa clam, Tridacna derasa.) another wonderful form of natural nutrient export. Large clams although consump alot of ca, are highly effective in filtering warter

2nd reason for hes success would be hes knowledge in a good lighting for sps. Read up hes article. U see he has a 14 bulb set up, although he only uses 10.

He does still test for water parameters occasionally ( E.S.V. or Two Little Fishies calcium hydroxide/kalkwasser to keep calcium levels up.) He knows the amount required to maintain a healthy level of CA. But as mentioned, he does testing less frequently, but this comes with a good eye and experience to notice any change in corals ( I haven't actually tested calcium levels (or anything else) in a couple of years, but just keep an eye on things)

Monthly waterchange of 25% is considered normal when your system stabilises, and u already have a high nutrient export system

Good use of carbon is still necessary since the natural export means cant handle this job (After each water change is completed, I put approximately two to three cups of E.S.V. or Two Little Fishies HydroCarbon2 granular activated carbon and one cup of Two Little Fishies Phosban into a mesh bag )

So really, this guy knows what hes doing. He tank is stable with little changes, as for the age of the tank, i did not see it mentioned, but he did say "for a couple of years".

Hope this helps.

 

I Love Stagsss

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Having a cr will definitely make ur reefing hobby easier and lessen your chores. But foolproof or not, will depend on your own tuning. I've known guys who go on long business trips and never had problems with kh issues using a cr, its pretty reliable if u ask me, unless ur digital timer or feed pump screws up. As like anything else when comes to equipment, like a failed return pump, chiller etc.

I believe others may have postive or negative views towards cr based on their own expierence, maybe they can share more input on this matter. My first experience using a cr couple yrs back was a nightmare, could never get it tuned, but that was because i was using a different method from now. This 2nd try at cr with the new method has been only positive by far.

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I Love Stagsss

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True bro. My parameter has been stable recently on CR.

The only problem is sometimes the return effluent flow got stuck, not sure the cause yet. Probably due to the small grain media that I used. Other than that the the parameter is quite stable.

Another thing is on auto water top up. Mine has a stable 2 liter per day water evaporation. So if going away for more than 1 week, then need someone to help topping up the DI water reservoir.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Dosing works well too. However let's say if you are dosing 200ml of kH/day, it is better to get a dosing pump that can dose for example 5ml @ 40times a day, compared to 20ml @ 10 times a day. The more the dosing is spread out the more stable the water parameters.

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Always something more important than fish.

http://reefbuilders.com/2012/03/08/sps-pico-reef/

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Dosing works well too. However let's say if you are dosing 200ml of kH/day, it is better to get a dosing pump that can dose for example 5ml @ 40times a day, compared to 20ml @ 10 times a day. The more the dosing is spread out the more stable the water parameters.

If i have a dosing pump that is accurate to 0.5ml, then dosing 5ml will give me a 10% error right? So over the day would i get an average 10% error as compared to dosing 20ml with an average 2.5% error? Small amounts dosed would have more error resulting in dosing fluctuations?

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