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Any Comments?


malcolm
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Ok thanks, I'm sorry about what happened. Hey for $80 why not get a 250 watt, I paid $1** for this 150 watt 17,000k one. If only yours was in working order....... :whistle

forget it..i've vented my frustration and indeed, it was partially my fault..no choice..take the $30 as a donation loh...

let bygones be bygones..

BUT AT LEAST U OWE ME KOPI RIGHT???!!! :angry:

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Woo.. I see a big fan besides the tank? For cooling purpose? :lol:

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"Ah, Blackadder. Started talking to yourself, I see."

"Yes...it's the only way I can be assured of intelligent conversation."

- Melchett and Edmund Blackadder

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For those of you who havent looked closely at the pic, I have placed the light 2 1/2 feet above the tank. I will lower it slowly until i reach a reasonable balance between temperature and evaporation. I have very high evaporation with FL tubes as well because I use cooling fans. I monitor the SG daily and it is a chance for me to use more kalk. I'm tired of using stupid FL and PL lights. This one will last even through tank upgrades and the bulbs last up to a year. The strobe effect created by the water ripples is also more soothing to corals. MH is the light of all lights. T5 is just another FL tube. The 5 stands for 5/8 of an inch which is the tube diameter. Nothing special. Bright yes but special no! The spectrum of T5 is better then normal tubes but they are still not a point source of light and not as appealing to corals and the viewer. :evil:

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For those of you who havent looked closely at the pic, I have placed the light 2 1/2 feet above the tank. I will lower it slowly until i reach a reasonable balance between temperature and evaporation. I have very high evaporation with FL tubes as well because I use cooling fans. I monitor the SG daily and it is a chance for me to use more kalk. I'm tired of using stupid FL and PL lights. This one will last even through tank upgrades and the bulbs last up to a year. The strobe effect created by the water ripples is also more soothing to corals. MH is the light of all lights. T5 is just another FL tube. The 5 stands for 5/8 of an inch which is the tube diameter. Nothing special. Bright yes but special no! The spectrum of T5 is better then normal tubes but they are still not a point source of light and not as appealing to corals and the viewer.

Placing your mh so high it is as good as not using even though you will be lowering it down ... The optimun height is 6-8 inch above water surface which is quite close and if you raise higher you will lose the light intensity which is not advisable...

As for T5, there are High Output tubes and Normal Output tube FYI... The ones most of us using here are High Output which is 24w, the dymax ones are Normal Output which is 21w, there are even lower one which you can find at most diy shopz..

Hope you know that you will need to drip the kalk and not to pour in during water change... :peace:

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I know it needs to be lower. As I said, I will slowly lower it. And I do appreciate the free space I have to work with my tank. No need to remove anything to gain easy access. And its 150 watts of 17,000k. The effect of the ripples on the sandy botom are fantastic. Here is a pic of tank setup at Day 0. Note the temperature without chiller or fans. I live in Toa Payoh on top floor, very windy :eyeblur:

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Bro, is good for you to do a hood. Bec if you keep on looking at yur nano, you will hape blur eyesss... And is no good for you.. Oso doing a hood can make the light spectrum right into yur nano. correct me if i m wrong.. Jst my 2 cent... :rolleyes:

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Wow! I have the exact same tank size before..... but not with MH..... IMO, overkilled. I believe your tank depth is <2ft. T5 HO should be good unless you have future plans :evil:

MH really give out lots of heat. B4 I upgrade to MH, running on 3*110W PL with chiller as cooling, topup is like 10 days, 2/3 litres. After 2*150Watt MH, 4/5 days topup 2/3 litres. No change in any config except light. Chiller a little more hardworking though.

:) Greeting :)

Tank: 4' by 2' by 2' (CR antique)

Sump: 3' include 1' refuigm

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i use to have 150w MH on a 2 footer (1ft height). The MH is above 8 inch off the surface area.....no way a tank without chiller can cut it....even with chiller, is 5 minutes off follow by 25min on.....ie, 3/4 of the time....also because of the small body of water, heat gain by MH is very very fast, so don't think even if you up to a dam powerful chiller, it will not help...

did a test run before....with only 6 inline fan and the MH on...temperature each 34 degress in half an hour....so please try it out on an tank without life stock first and judge its effect....

PS: The digital termometer are incrediablty inaccurate....please get one of those cheap mercury termometer to test out.... ;)

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i am doing a 2 feet tank with 250W MH also...

but a 1 metre cube sump.... and another 5 feet tank.....

bro.... i think yrs a bit overkill....

seriously... we are not flaming u.... but offering advise....

*translated from Hokkien*

"If say no bang wall, this idiot will never ripen" - Mr Quah Siew Kow.

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