yooyoo99

Hv you tried aquamarin, they may have some% off the website selling price. Call to ask.

Agree with this method, very effective. Once, i shut down my OR6500 return pump becos of loud noise. Within a day, dust-like particles start to accul at the tank water surface. Added a SEIO and it only partially remove the problem.

I have an orange plate on the rock with med flow - no problem Another one at the bottom of tank (no sand) with med/high flow - no problem You may want to investigate further.

AM jalan kayu should have it

Saw 1 cheap source at Marsiling lane, $38 only. Other DIY stores are selling the same unit at $70+. Near the market area opposite the Borneo motor servicing center. Shop name has big Stanley sign.

Why still keeping the lights on? The corals should be ok without lights for a few days. They will die fast with high temp instead. Do off all non-critical eqpt to reduce the heat contribution. Have you checked with Iwarna on spare chillers? I have traded in mine when i converted my chiller from resun to aircon compressor type. Give victor a call. Not sure if Aquamarine can help, but worth a try.

Normally i will cut away the whole infected branch with brown jelly (branch type). Base on my experience, dipping in whatever is of no use, and you may risk spreading to the rest of the branches the longer the sick branch is in your tank. Good news is that the brown jelly (for my case) never spread to other sps or lps. Sometimes you may see still your hammers having brown jelly problem for no obvious reasons, and all parameters are still ok. I cut loses by removing the infected branches fast.

You can check out the ATI pricing at aquamarin website

Have you found out what you have done right to reduce the NO3 from 100+ppm to 40ppm? If yes, you can choose to continue doing the same thing and with time, your NO3 should drop to a stabilize value. Main point - No need to spend $$ on other items, which you may/may not find it to be useful in future. Take some time to think it over before spending the $$. My previous 3ft tank use to have over 100ppm of NO3. I changed water weekly for close to a month, and it drop to lesser than 10ppm. After that i just do a weekly water change, never run any rowa or carbon (i do have a skimmer).

OR6500 is very powerful, unless you intend to split the output into 2. With 1 output and elevation of about 1.7m from sump, the wave can reach a diagonal 5 ft length and still pretty strong.

She may regret even more if she let you keep a marine tank at home....Weekends burn working on tank, cheong lfs, surf net to learn more.......been through that

Once i bought a flame wrasse from steven, he actually allowed me to bring back fish first without paying, cos i did not bring enough cash. This is a great amt of trust, as he did not know me well enough as a frequent customer to his farm.

I will recommend the following fishes for their color and character flame hawk (provided no shrimps for you in future) royal gramma flame wrasse (super ex and good jumper though)

I have been using coralife salt since i started reefing in 2003 (plastic container with 3 bags inside) from petmart and reborn. It dissolves completely without any residue. Bought 3 boxes of coralife salt in early 2008, it did not come in plastic container but in paper boxes (3 bags inside each). Salt in some of the bags harden, some still in loose. Those that are still loose have no residue inside. Those harden confirm will have residue no matter how long you stir the water. Measured 1x water with harden salt mix, kh only at 5dkh. Guess the Ca and carbonate has solidify and this may explain the white residue which is insoluble. Not sure if this is a batch problem with the distributor in singapore. But once i finish up my outstanding 6 bags of coralife salt, i will not touch this brand again. Mixing salt water is just too troublesome with this problem.

Checked with AM jln kayu few weeks back. They mentioned new stocks may be coming in around March. Need to check with them. I am looking for 1 too!

Bought mine from sheng shiong

If there is a spike in something and which is causing your life stocks to die, why only change 10% of the water? You can opt to replace more water to reduce the toxic level and then slowly stabilize the tank parameters.

Be careful of lps sting. I used to be able to handle the hammers with bare hands, till 1 fine day my skin starts to become allergic to it. Now some of my fingers develop eczema, become dry/scaly/itchy. Now i always use the clear thin plastic gloves when handling corals, cheap prevention.

Just went over to LCK201: Lots of medium to big sizes yellow tang A few flame wrasse (still blur blur) 5-8 AT of different sizes I bought a AT and a yellow tang Above fishes just arrive yesterday

Do you adjust your pump output frequently? Heard from the person at store, need to turn off the whole power supply before making adjustment to the output through the 7095, as recommended by the OEM.

I have just encountered the same problem with my TS24, 1 transformer died. Mine was from AM, received in during march 08. Good that AM is able to loan 1 set of 6000 for me to use while waiting for the replacement transfomer. Question now is what will happen after the warranty period is over? I saw a big bag of faulty transformer......

Based on previous experiences, if fish has white spot or swollen eyes but still swimming normally and eating, it should be ok. Give it time to recover. Water in tip top condition though. But the moment the fish stops eating for days or swimming slowly, most probably............

Be careful when you shift the rocks with such worms. Their encrusted tubes tend to cut or scratch your unprotected fingers when handling the rocks. Not sure what happen, the tubies at my tank disappear when i shift from 3ft to 6ft. Can't help in this case.

I also hv the same problem. The other 4 types of blastos side by side are opening up nicely. All parameters and corals normal. It just stop opening 1 fine day and then reced bit by bit.

I hv setup a 6 footer in Dec07, think i paid a slightly higher price premium as compared to other tank maker, but still settle on him due to the good reviews of the tank maker in this forum. No doubt, his tank quality is good, i hv full confidence in the work. But the carpentry sucks, and not not up to my specs. Sides of the sump area not removable making it difficult for me to do maintenance now. But he did not offer to rectify, blame it on the carpenter instead. Recently, the joints in the GF pipings start to leak 1 by 1. I hv to take them apart and tighten them using the white teflon tape (some part no tape there). This is giving a phobia, as i wonder when will the pipings which i hv not touch will start to leak. Also encountered slow response when calling during the tank setup phase, numerous excuses for delays in tank setup etc etc. Overall satisfaction for the $$ spend, not worth it. But then again, full confidence in the glass works. Above are my personal views when i setup my tank, not to sabotage anyone's business.